- This topic has 3 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 9 months ago by .
-
Posts
-
The L shaped plan says that the top should be 26 inches on the connecting portion and 22 inches on the other. How much overhang off the front does this account for.
The plans have no details about overhang off the front and sides. If I cut the top to be flush with the top of the beer rail beam, the dimensions seem to account for a 4 inch overhang off the front.
If I plan to use duckbill type molding, I understand I will have to used layered boards but do I need the 4 inch overhang?
Doing the standard configuration, yes, 4″ would be the approx. overhang.
If modifying using “duckbill” or as we call it, Chicago Style Arm Rial Molding, you can approach it one of two ways…Either add a second step back layer to the top to match the profile of the duckbill rail you make or buy, or add a lower lip to create the step profile you need for your rail. When adding a second top layer, you will increase the height of the bar by 3/4″ (.75″) – doing the lower lip method keeps the same bar height. The lower lip is typically glued and clamped in place. You can add a few screws 1 3/8″ screws in place of clamps. Clamping is best.
The lower lip method will also extend your overhang, so if you want to do that mod, you can trim back the bar top as desired.
The only rule of thumb for over hang is that is approximately “one hand” deep. This was determined by visiting countless bars and measuring the overhang with my hand. It’s rarely deeper than that, but when it comes to bars, anything goes.
The solution is very simple: Once you get your arm rail molding, test fit it on your existing overhang…if it looks like too much overhang for your taste, trim back your bar top as needed. This can be done easily by setting your circular saw to 3/4″ depth, draw a line and trim off the top later, then do the same to the bottom layer, retaining the proper profile for your molding.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.