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Kegger Bar Comments from a novice woodworker:
1) Follow the plans
2) Build the bar
3) Drink beerIt is that easy
My Kegger Bar is built and working great!! So great, I had an initial problem of no beer being dispensed. The first night it worked great, the next day no luck. After quite a bit of troubleshooting, I discovered the cooler was so cold, the liquid was FREEZING in the keg coupler preventing the flow. I installed a Ceramic German Beer Tower (28″ tall) and can have whaterver temperature I choose between 32-48 degrees) With that said, I would like to submit a couple of ideas:
1) Since I drink German Beer (in a half barrel) which uses a taller keg coupler, I would increase the height of piece number 18 to 29″. You will lose some clearence under the bar top, but who cares. I purchased a right angle elbow, which solved my clearence issue.
2) I only use the cool box for the Kegs so I would position the refridgerator to allow room for just the two kegs with just a couple of inches to spare.
3) I would alter piece number 9 to 23″ or 24″ (making the cooler slightly deeper) to make installation/removal of kegs a bit easier, it would also allow more air circulation around the kegs.
ALTERATIONS THAT WORKED WELL FOR ME:
Piece 22: I drilled two 7/16″ holes to thread the air hose thru
I positioned a 120mm fan ($9.99) in front of the ice box blowing air towards the keg (as stated earlier I froze my coupler, so this seems to work well) and a 120mm fan pulling air from the compressor (these fans are 100% quiet)
Run fan power wire between fridge and piece 22, then spray foam any gaps
Purchased 12v 1000milliamp power supply from RadioShack ($12.99) rather than old PC power supply
RECOMMENDED ADDITIONS TO PLANS:
Please provide details on installation of recommended pin hinges to door. I have them but do not want to try and figure installation until I understand how the door can swing open. My door is 1/16″ smaller than the opening and is a tight fit. I can’t see how it will be able to swing open/closed.TOUGHEST CONSTRUCTION ASPECT: Getting the spray foam inside the cool box to look good. Minor I know, but the rest turned out so great it eats at me that I have globs of spray foam at the interior seams. No one will ever see it, but I know its there.
THANK YOU: My wife was very skeptical at the beginning, but loves the look of the new bar, and is very happy with the final product.
If you want the interior of your Keg Box to look nice, there is a product called Miralite. I first tried to fiberglass the entire interiorer, but after i got pretty high on fumes, i decided that was a very very bad idea. So i went to Lowes, and purchased one sheet of miralite, 31 bucks or so, and then just used liquid nail to secure it to the pink foam. Looks beautiful. Then we are just going to use a bead of silicone around the corners, and go from there. I”ll post pictures when i’m done. It was a little cheaper than the Aluminum sheet metal I was looking at, and cuts really nice with a Jig Saw (POS Ryobi battery operated one with new blades).
Great tips, thanks! One question: you lost me about the two holes that you drilled in piece #22. Air hoses? I’m a rookie at this keg bar thing. Can you expand on that for me?
Also, did you also buy your 120mm fans at Radio Shack as well? Thanks! PaulExternal CO2! Oh man, now THERE’S an idea. I wish I had thought of that before I put my workspace countertop on. I suppose I could drill holes through the rear of my fridge (Haeir, from Walmart) and just spray foam those to fill any gaps. I’ll need about 6 feet of hose, with the connections at each end. Where could I purchase those, do you know?
Thanks for the reply!
Paul
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