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could you use the envirotex to seal in old baseball cards into the top of the bar ? or what would you recommend for that type of application? thanks , tom
Tom:
Envirotex is PERFECT for that application.
Be sure to trim all edges to create an edge to contain the
Envirotex. If you don’t, it will spill all over the floor.It is slow drying but sets up pretty well within 12 hours.
It may take several days or even weeks before it gets rock hard.
The better you mix it the faster it seems to cure.Read the directions that come with it carefully and follow those instructions exactly.
I noticed that in the first few weeks, if you set a heavy glass on the surface, you will get a “dent” in the top, so use a coaster for the first several weeks. After a month the top is rock hard.
😎
I had heard that you could use a hair dryer to remove air bubbles. I followed instructions and used a propane torch worked great.
Yes, be sure to carefully seal ALL seams along the edges (trim). This stuff is quite thick and looks fine but, if any gaps exists you’ll find out in the morning. Trust me !!!!I am building an outdoor bar with tile on top, can I use it on the tile top?
Al:
You may be right…that part I did not catch. Maybe UV from the sun would screw it up. Glad to see some read the ENTIRE instructions…
Steve
Edited By admin on 1112712723
the snake,
If I recall it said up tp 1/4″ pours at a time. So, it would take about 5 seperate pours. No reason why it would not work but might take quite a bit. My bar top was poured to about 1/4 to 3/8″ thick and took a total of 1 gallon. You may need to look at cost factor here.
Can you fill the bottom 3/4 of the space with glass then the top portion with envirotex ? This might be cheaper and you don’t need to worry about breaking the glass top because the envirotex is on the surface ?Great idea . Now clear silicone won’t work because it will repel the envirotex. I tried it already !
But, why not use a piece of plywood that has the holes for the pucks already cut out of it. You could lift the plywood with spacers so that only a portion of the puck extrudes. There must be a holesaw the size of a puck. If needed you could seal any gaps from the underside of the plywood. Finish the plywood to match the bar’s finish.
The extruded portions of the pucks would still give you a 3D effect. Now you would have to use less envirotex, all depends how much ypu extrude the pucks from the plywood. To seal the edges of the plywood be sure to use a tinted wood filler to match the bar finish. This is where I tried clear silicone. IT WON’T WORK.
I know it seems like a waste to remove most of the plywood for the puck holes but the savings in the volume of envirotex needed is worth it. Just thought I’d add my idea of an alternative solution.probak118,
Awesome idea! I picked up a 3″ hole saw last night and tried it out on a scrap piece of 3/4″ thick plywood. The puck fits in there perfectly and sticks up about 1/4″…. I think its snug enough where I wont even have to seal it… Now I just have to get to drilling 100+ holes in that bartop!!!
Thanks for the idea!
Mike
thesnake,
I would seal the underside anyway. I thought my edges were fine also. It took evernight to see that the envirotex had slowly oozed into a openening.
A little work now could save you a lot of headaches later like I had.Wow!! The puck top is awesome, Kudos!!
I’m about ready to set up my bar top with Beer bottle caps, anyone have any suggestions or words of wisdom? I’m concered about the air space under the bottle caps when pouring my Envirotex.
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