Framing flushness on Inside of bar

[marcusjh]

I’m trying to understand from the plans (page 19 of the pdf), why the lower counter top on B and C over hangs the floor 2×4 framing by what looks like 1.5″. Also, on A, why does the countertop sit back 1.5 inches from the floor 2×4? I would think these should all be flush with each other to aid with applying face framing with oak planking, etc?

[mlbates]

Reb162, I am at this same point with my build. #65, 66, 67 appear flush but clearly the instructions point at #61, 62, 63 are 1.5″ above upright. Since you were at this point as of Feb 17th, what did you do to resolve? Did you make #61, 62 and 63 flush and kept going? Have you finished your bar yet?

[mlbates]

OK, I had another set of eyes (the wife) look at the diagram…she says #70, 71 and 72 are “flush” with #61, 62, 63 and 69. I was looking at it as if #70, 71 and 72 met “on top” of #61, 62, 63 and 69…flush makes sense to have the 1.5″ height difference …I have been looking at this for a few hours trying to figure out and she did it in 10 minutes… 😳

[mckdelbu]

It looks like you guys are asking two separate questions, so I’ll answer each….

1. The 1.5″ overhang of the countertop is deliberate. It gives you a slight overhang and more counter space. It’s also more comfortable when you have a sort of toe space between the two edges, take a look at your kitchen counters, there is a 3.5″ toe space on most cabinets. This should not cause and problems trimming the face, just run a 1×2 or 1×4 all the way across the top of the lower cabinet opening the trim down at the verticals with a 1×4. If you decide to put doors on, the face would then be flush. Face trim or doors are not required on the bartender side, but it’s your option.

2. on page 18 & 19, there is a gap of 1.5″ where parts 61, 62, 63, 68 and 69 meet the side upright supports. This 1.5″ gap allows for the 1.5″ thickness of parts 70, 71, 72 to meet flush at the top. I don’t see too much confusion in the drawing. When done properly, the edges of parts 61,62,63, 68 and 69 should be flush at the top with parts 70, 71 and 72.
(Notice on page 18 it says to cut the trim but don’t secure yet, that is to allow you to make it flush to the real (70, 71, 72) parts. There is even a note that points out the 1.5″ gap.)

dvw – tell your wife she’s a natural woodworker and mechanical engineer! 😉
Cheers!

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