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The following questions were posted by one of my more diligent, detail oriented members. This is great feedback and will help the next revision of the Kegger Bar pdf document.
Anyone else with any questions is encouraged to post here.Quote:Hi Steve,
I really like the plans, good job! I am going over the plans for the Kegger Bar plan (release version 2). Maybe I am just dense, but I and have some questions & observations:Regarding the shopping/cut lists:
Q1: • page 3: all three of the 4×8 sheets are listed as AC (not sure what that means) and then on page 6 you refer to a couple of them as BC. Is that a typo?
ANSWER: AC and BC refers to wood grade, an A side is smooth sanded and is best suite for the bar top or exposed finshed areas. The C refers to the back side which is not so nice and may contain knots. BC is simply a lesser grade and is good for floor panels and non exposed areas that can be painted. The worst grade is CDX which is used for underlayment of floors etc.
This information will be added to the Builder’s Tips Document.Q2: • page 6: “side steps” called out as 1x6x8 and “arm rest top sides” called out as 1x6x8. Should those have been called out as 1x6x6 as listed on page 3?
ANSWER: I think the issue here is that the callout is simply the material type. However, for clarity purposes, that will be reviewed & corrected.
Q3: • page 7: “Keg box door” you have 2 entries as 1×2 poplar, yet on page 3 you have 1x2x8 clear oak board. Seemed confusing when you go to buy and cut this stuff. I do see on page 32 you refer to poplar since it’s cleaner and easier to sand. I guess it’s important that the builder will read the plans thoroughly before going to the store eh? Hehehehe.
ANSWER: The plans offer “suggested” materials. I used aspen due to it’s low knot contenet. The above issue will be reviewed & corrected if needed.
Regarding insulation.
Q4: • What is the R7.5 pro pink insulation? Is it the common fiberglass sandwiched between paper on either side, which is non rigid?
ANSWER: No, it is Owens Corning rigid PINK insulation.
Pro Pink is the Trademark name. Ask your hardware store personnel, they will know.Q5: • Is the R5.5 Styrofoam, the common white Styrofoam which is fairly rigid, and breaks when you bend it too far?
ANSWER: Yup! (That one was easy)
Q6: • page 6: on the insulation panels section they are all listed as 1.5x4x8. Are they supposed to be the R7.5 pro pink or the R5.5 Styrofoam?
ANSWER: The highest R value possible, that would be 7.5
The only place to use the Styrofoam is inside the keg box door and as filler (since it usually only comes in a big package of 6 panels) I did some double & triple layers on my keg box and used some of the syrofoam between layers of R7.5 . This need not be follow to the letter, since each installation varies a bit.Q7: • You never seem to mention how big to cut the Styrofoam for the door.
ANSWER: Once the door is built, a simple tape measurement will provide the exact size. Fill in any air spaces will Great Stuff brand foam or similar.
Q8: • On page 27 you talk about the pro pink insulation. Is that the only place it’s used? Where is it placed and how big to cut?
ANSWER: The Pro Pink insulaton is used all around the keg box. I myself even used it around the exposed areas of the fridge, even though the factory insulation should be good enough. The more, the better!
As you are building, look for every possible nook & cranny and fill them with spray foam (Great Stuff brand or similar).
DONT FORGET UNDER THE FLOOR PANEL!
That requires a double layer!General observations:
Q9: • I cant seem to search PDF files for words. Is that a problem on my end or an issue with the document. ( I am using Reader v7.0.3)
ANSWER: I’ll check into that one. It is a pdf generation setting.
Q10: • Page 15. you say “place a later”, should be “place a layer”?
ANSWER: Me and my fat fingers! Thanks, I’ll correct that.
Q12: • Page 27 you say “The PVC tube fit it there perfectly and should. . . “ What should that say?
ANSWER: …and the phone rang?
I believe the correct answer is that there should be an open space all the way up into the tap tower body so cold air will be allowed to flow into the tower. The main point of the oversized PVC tube is to allow the cold keg box air to extend up into the tower.
I may have not mentioned this, but placing a 1.5″ tube inside a 3″ tube and then insulation the outter gap with spary foam makes for a better cold air pass through.Q13: • On front page you say serves 4-5 people, it would be nice to give approximate bar dimensions as you did in the L shaped bar front page.
ANSWER: Okee dohkee…next rev.
Q14: • Also I noticed you mentioned that a 1×2 isn’t really 1 inch by 2 inches, that’s a good tidbit. Perhaps you could also give real dimensions on 2×2, 2×4, 2×6, 2×8, maybe somewhere close to the beginning?
ANSWER: That is covered in the Builder’s Tip’s Document.
and is also in the forum, at: http://www.barplans.info/cgi-bin….1;t=277Please keep in mind I am not trying to nit-pick. I just figured you would like the feedback. Having written many technical reports/publications (although you would never know it from my email correspondence, hehehe), I know the author can read things a thousand times and not see things as a “new reader” would.
Thanks
Thanks again Tim for the detailed feedback!
Edited By admin on 1126368168
EHBP-03 (8-foot straight kegger bar)
Why does the “Optional Keg Tapper Tower System Parts” section list an optional PC Power Supply and UV LED Fan box?
I am to the point of ordering the Keg Tapper equipment and wondered what these are for. They are not mentioned anywhere else in the plan.
they are for air circulation, keep reading!
also see the builder’s gallery > https://www.barplan.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=569
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