Keg door

[michael_89]

Hey folks. I’m having a devil of a time getting my keg box door to mount correctly. Can someone post some pictures of how they mounted their door so I can get a clue. How did folks position the hinges?

Thanks!

–Jamie

[Anonymous]

Hi Jamie, I had a little bit of a hard time also mounting the door. I will tell you what I used and include some pictures. You must use the pin hinges to mount the door due to it being a overlay door. you will have to chisel out a little to fit the hinge into the bottom and maybe some in the door to get it to fit properly. If the door wont shut once you mount it just use a plane and angle cut the edge of the door about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch, than it will close. hold that thought while i go pour a ice cold beer, ahh thats better. I hope this will help you and here are some pictures also. enjoy your bar, darrylgh
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~dddd10/DSC03052.JPG[/img]
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~dddd10/DSC03053.JPG[/img]
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~dddd10/DSC03054.JPG[/img]
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~dddd10/DSC03055.JPG[/img]

hope that the pictures made it.new at this.

[michael_89]

Thanks for the pictures Darrylgh! I’ve already used the bar with a keg for the superbowl a couple months back, but the door was just stuck in and sealed with tape (very redneck but functional), so it’s high time I get it mounted the right way. It’s been a pain in the ass though. I’ll pick up some of the hinges and see if I can get them to work.

Thanks!
–Jamie

[Anonymous]

Don’t forget the foam gasket around the perimeter of the door frame.

Just another hint:

When you build any keg box, first finish the door opening, making sure you have a flush, rectangular surface.
Then, measure the opening and build your inner frame (1×2 aspen) to fit inside the door opening with a .25″ gap all the way around.
So the frame will be .50″ smaller than the actual door opening.
Then, cut the door panel to fit the frame, then build the exterior frame using 1×4 Oak boards. You can do 45 degree corners or “shaker” style 90 degree corners. The trick is to have a .75″ to 1″ overlap between the inner frame and the exterior frame. This overlap is where you will apply the .25″ foam gasket, larger or smaller depending upon the size of the resulting space between the face of the keg box and the exterior door frame.
Always apply the gasket to the DOOR, not the face of the keg box!

Use the pin hinges listed at the lower portion of the plan overview page.
These are your best option and are quite easy to install.

Take your time, use a square and double check your work as you go.

Use window latches as the door closer or any other hardware substitution you prefer. I’ve yet to find a good “keg box” style closer.

Don’t forget to fill the door with styrofoam AND spray foam aroun dthe edges and cober with .10″ aluminum sheet. This is available at most hardware stores.
Cover the keg box floor with aluminum sheet too!
The keg will slide MUCH better.

[michael_89]

Steve,

Yea, I have my gasket ready, just have to be able to mount the door correctly! The plans are great man. I’ve home brewed my own beer for some time, but have always bottled it. Yesterday I picked up a corny keg and can’t wait to have my first pint of home brewed beer out of the keg box. The problem was my opening was not perfectly square (miter saw was off just a hair) so my frame is not fitting in very well. I’ve done tons of sanding, but it’s taking some time.

Anyways, thanks for the advice and keep up the good work!

–Jamie

[Anonymous]

royal:

I here ya!
A good practice is to NOT trust your miter saw…
I usually grab some 1×4 pine scrap, do a few test cuts, then verify them with a carpenters combo square (45 side).
I keep checking & adjusting until the 45 is a real 45 and the resulting 90 is really 90.
Also, look into buying a pocket hole jig for fastening the corners and for trim work. It works great! Once you start using pocket hole joints, you’ll be looking for other projects to use them on.

Thanks
Steve

[rybld8]

I couldn’t get my keg box door to ft properly with the hinges. I eventually got rid of the hinges and put handles on each side of the door. I pull the door off when I need access to the keg box and put it back on when I’m done. My door fits snugly but I also put latches on each side of the door to make sure it doesn’t inadvertently fall off. I’ve been using my kegger bar for almost 8 months with no problems.
Paul

[wcj543]

It sure would have been nice to state on the plans that the keg door frame should be half an inch smaller than the door opening! The plans I have say it must fit PERFECTLY, so stupid me, I made the frame fit PERFECTLY (1/16″ smaller than the opening is PERFECTLY in my book). Then I read it must be a half-inch smaller than the opening? That’s PERFECTLY!? Now, I have to figure out how to take it down that much vertically and horizontally. Sanding the crap out of it may be the only way without having to build it again. I will figure it out, but it just rubs me the wrong way that the most crucial part of the plan was written so poorly.

[mckdelbu]

You do not have to take it down all around. Just the edge opposite the hinges, you need to bevel that edge just so the door will close.
A hand held belt sander will do the trick.
You really need to make it fit as close as possible yet (using common sense) realize that it has to swing open.
The old discontinued pin hinges allowed for this close fitting.
The plan doc should probably be updated now that those hinges are no longer available.

1/2″ gap all around is too much, that would be a 1″ difference. 1/4″ all around would be about the max.
It’s always easier to remove material that to add.

Look on the bright side, your door will fit tight and that is exactly what you want.

[wcj543]

Yeah, I took down the edge opposite the hinge side and the door is PERFECT! It fits great! I left 1/16″ gap on each side (1/8″ total) and when I push the door in for sizing I get this “whoosh” of air! The best work I have done yet…now I have figure out what hinges to use to mount the darn thing. I think what I might do is build out the frame around the door opening with 1×4″ oak so the door frame is flush with the door. Then find hinges that mount flush. Heck, the door is behind the bar and no one is going to see it anyway. Also, I think what I will do is try to find an old cooler latch, like you see on a walk-in cooler, to keep the door closed.

[Anonymous]

There is a post here dealing with the discontinued pin hinges and new substitutes:https://www.barplan.com/bforum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=765

[Author]

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