Home Bar Forum › Forums › Home Bar Project Construction Questions › EHBP-02 L-Shaped Bar › L-shaped Bar with internal Kegger Box
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March 7, 2007 at 12:34 am #18919Anonymous
I have a question or two. I liked the L-shapped kegger bar, but I dont want to have the prep area and the backsplash, I just like the looks of the regular L-shaped bar top. I was wondering…
1) How do I convert the L kegger bar to have the regular l-bar top???
2) If I build the Regular L-shape bar, I wanna build a kegger box, but I do not have an extra room to place the frig into, so how does that whole layout work (refrig,box,keg,insulation,co tank,and so forth) is there enough room top place all of that under the bar??? Any help you can give me would be appreciated. So basically what I am asking is it easier to just build the L-shaped kegger bar and change the bar top to do away with the prep area???? And if it is going to be easier how do I change the layouts to make the top flat like the regular l-bar. Thanks again.March 7, 2007 at 1:02 am #19980AnonymousI stuck a compact refrigerator under the L-shaped bar and built a box around it. Worked fine.
I would incorporate the plans for building the 8 ft straight keggar into one of the legs on the L-shaped bar. Just take the general idea for how the keg box is built on the 8 footer and stick it under the L-bar.
It’s not too difficult. You’ll have to vary from the plans slightly, but you should be ok.Good luck.
March 7, 2007 at 1:12 am #19981AnonymousThanks for the help beerbaron, how do I modify the plans to have the regular flat counter top instead of the two-level prep area type top? Where in the plans do I switch the supports and studs around?? Sorry for all the dumb questions but I am new and like the flat top better than the prep area. Thanks again 😉
March 7, 2007 at 1:54 am #19982AnonymousBuild your bar following the L-shape plans. That has the flat counter top.
That bar also has space to insert shelves, cabinets, whatever.
On one leg of the bar you will build a keg box similar to what was shown on the 8 ft. straight kegger. You’ll have to get a little creative, but it’s not that difficult. The main concern is that you have a sealed box around the refrigerator. I used the 8 ft. straight kegger plans to build the door etc.
Send me your email address and I’ll send you some pics.I am by no means a woodworker, but I’m happy with the result.
March 7, 2007 at 2:32 am #19983AnonymousHery beerbaron, here is my email. wvmtnrider74@yahoo.com Thanks for your help, just wanna make sure I do everything right the 1st time so I dont make a ton of mistakes, haha.
March 7, 2007 at 7:26 am #19984AnonymousWhen I make the kegger box in the 8′ straight bar type plan, do I enclose the refrigerator and the back coils all inside the insulation? Will the heat from the coils warm the inside of the box??? Exactly how do you run the fan or placement of the fans for the inside of the box since i have to have it all underneath the bar???
March 7, 2007 at 7:34 pm #19985AnonymousNo, you definitely don’t want to enclose the entire refrigerator. It needs to be open so air can circulate around it.
You will just be building a box that will attach to the opening of the refrigerator. Read steps 6-7 of the 8 ft. straight kegger. You will have to modify those plans because you said you do not want the prep area, but that is basically how the keg box will work if you want to incorporate it into the L-shaped kegger.
March 13, 2007 at 10:05 pm #19989AnonymousBB is absolutely correct!
The back side of the fridge MUST be kept open, OR a suitable air circulation system in place.
If you must enclose the back of the fridge, make a bottom vent using a standard household cold air return vent cover. The at the top, place one or two exhaust vents to pull air over the coils.
I found a neat way to mount 80mm fans through a 1.5″ (or less) thick wall:
1. Start with a 4″ x 3″ PVC reduction coupling, insert the 80mm fan into the 4″ side (be sure to determine the direction of flow).
2. Drill a small hole though the side of the coupler wall to run the wires through. Use silicone caulk on four corners to secure the fan inside the coupler.
3. Using the 3″ side, mark a hole using it’s O.D. (outside diameter) on to the area where you want to mount the fan.
4. Use a jig saw to cut the hole.
5. Insert the 3″ end of the coupler into the hole and secure around the edges with PL-200 construction adhesive or fast dry silicone caulk.
6. Connect & Power it up!I’ll get a photo of this ASAP.
March 13, 2007 at 10:30 pm #19990AnonymousThanks for all the help guys, I have another question. Are the dementions for the L-shaped bar, the same for the straight kegger bar?? I am wanting to put the kegger box in the L-shaped bar and was just making sure the demensions are the same so the box will fit in it. I am planning on starting this project in the next week or two, just need to get some time off and buy all the materials. Once again, thanks for all the help.
March 14, 2007 at 9:17 pm #19991Anonymouswvmtnrider:
Roughly, yes, they are the same.
Once you understand the basics of the Keg Box, it can be adapted for any of the projects, or built into the bar back or as a standalone unit.The custom Bar Designer application, due to be released at the end of the month will allow you to modfy dimensions and print a new cut list, all from your browser! Sign up as a Beta tester and get it for FREE when it goes live. (it will cost new members $5.00 extra). Sign up by sending me a PM or posting to the new Custom Bar Designer Topic.
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