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March 27, 2008 at 10:46 pm #19415Anonymous
I see this topic has been brought up, but no real answers or pics have been provided. Has anyone incorporated a “Gate” into their bar top, one that would maybe hinge at the wall and attach to the wall when open? Pics or explanation of how you built, what hardware you used, etc. would be great. Thanks.
May 25, 2010 at 4:15 am #20444AnonymousThis looks like a neglected post, but I’ll try to address it:
A lift gate is really quite simple to build and here’s how to do it –
Build your bar and at one end, build your lift gate section to match the existing bar when it is in the closed or up position.Now, you will want to hing one side…I would suggest a piano style hinge that runs the full width of the bar at the hinge point.
Hold the “flapper” section in place with some temporary bracing from below while you install the hinge.On the end support section opposite the hinged side, you will need to build a recessed latch mechanism. In order to do so, you will need a small amount of overhang at the point where the end support meets the operator side of the flapper door. This overhang should be the thickness of a 2×4 which is actually 1.5 inches.
Build a U-shaped frame on the vertical upright so the top of the U (the open end) meets with the bottom of the flapper door. Cut a square piece of 3/4″ thick plywood to fit inside the U-shaped opening with 1/4 inch of clearance on the left & right sides. This will be the locking flap. The bottom should be hinged with a piano hinge so it swings into the door opening. This locking flap mechanism will be held in place using a spring, a screw and some washers…we’ll get to that in a moment.
The top of the locking flap will be the surface on which the flapper door will rest, so the entire U-shaped frame should be secured in place using deck screws and washers passing through 3/8″ holes in the U frame. Doing it this way will allow you to loosen the screws, then lift up on the U frame assembly to custom fit the locking mechanism.
Now all that is left is to add a spring loaded pin to retain the locking flap.
You can use either a single spring or two set apart by about 12″.
I’ve done it both ways, the double just seems to work longer.To add the spring pin, (I’ll explain the single method first, doing the double is a no brainer after you do it once)
Drill a 1/4″ hole in the center of the locking flap about 3 inches down from the top. If you drill too far toward the top, the flapper door will hit the screw, so be sure you are down far enough that the flapper door swings away and can’t hit the screw.
Insert a 2.5″ long deck screw with a washer on both sides of the flap lock panel. Add a medium strength (about 2″) spring onto the screw on the inside of the flap lock panel. Then carefully drive the screw until it just starts to compress the spring. Now the flap lock panel is secure. It will require some tweaking to get it just right.
How it operates:
From the closed / up position, just reach under the bar and depress the flap lock panel. Since the top of the flapper door is resting on the top edge of the flap lock panel, pressing will push the lock panel into the recess created by the U frame. The door will fall away and open. To close the door, just lift the flapper door panel and it will depress the flap lock panel as it rises, the at the top, the spring pops the flap lock panel back under the flapper door, locking it in a secure upright & closed position.
I hope that all makes sense. It’s a very simple, yet effective mechanism.
You can substitute thinner materials or even hardwoods. The 2×4 use is just a suggestion.
Here is a detail drawing….
Thanks & Have Fun!
Steve[May 5, 2011 at 1:51 am #20608I would like to incorporate a ‘Lift Gate’ into my bar, and was wondering if there is a standard opening dimension, or is the access space up to the individual?
May 6, 2011 at 5:35 pm #20610It all depends on your preference.
Typical would be the width of a standard door opening which in most homes is 32″, but even that can be a little too big.
Break out the tape measure and check your door openings.I know some skinny folks who build very narrow access doors, while some heavier folks build them wider.
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