Making sure I build the keg box to cool properly

[ssayonh]

Building a kegbox using a Sunbeam 2.8 cu. ft. refrigerator (Model #SCR03PMWBW). I modified the kegerator barplan – my bar is smaller, and is going to be built into the wall. It is similar with the refrigerator sideways, door off, opening into a kegbox that is (approx) 34in. h x 27 w x 19 d.

I unfortunately just saw the negative postings about using Sanyo refrigerators with “flat backs” vs. the Haier with the coil back. The Sunbeam I am using has a flat back.

Do you think I should tear it out and put in a Haier, or do you think this one will work? Are the kegbox dimensions too big, and will they be a problem to insulate properly?

Thanks a ton for the help! Ronne

[Anonymous]

Ronne:

Here’s the bottom line on fridges:
1. The fridge should have a freezer plate.
If so, remove the little plastic door that cover the freezer section.
2. If it makes frost on its freezer plate, it will work.
3. Use a small PC cooling fans or similar to circulate the air over that plate.
4. Be sure you have NO leaks in your insulation. Double up in as many places as possible.

You did insulate under the floor, right? If you forgot, drill a few holes in the floor and pump in
a half dozen cans of max expanding spray foam insulation. Cover the floor with thin aluminum sheet.

For flat back models, be sure there is adequate ventilation behind the fridge and add a small fan if needed.
The basics of refrigeration require that excess heat be removed.

Remember: Fridges do not cool food. They remove heat.

Fans are critical…
I use one fan blowing over my freezer plate. I also use one blowing over the external coils on the back.
If I am not mistaken, the flat back models DO have coils, they are just covered. Try removing the cover if possible.

If my fans shut down on my keg box, it never goes below 45 degrees.
Once the fans kick in, it drops to about 34.5 degrees.

Keg box dimensions matter little, but if you think it’s too big, just add a few more panels of Pro Pink INSIDE the keg box.
This will make the inside area smaller.
Use spray foam liberally to secure the panels in place and fill all air pockets with foam.

Hope it helps.

[ssayonh]

Thanks a ton! The explanation helps a lot. Thankfully, I did insulate the floor, with pro-pink and great stuff. I’m going to pick up the power supply and fans tomorrow.

Appreciate the time – I’ll be sure to post photos when its finished; can’t wait!

Thanks again – Ronne

[jeff_but1]

How long goes the keg box usually take to cool down? The first time I had one layer of insulation around and ran it overnight empty (with no keg) and it dropped only to 48. I added another layer of insulation (just styrofoam 3/4″ thick) and sprayed a can of spray foam all around and sealed the gaps and under the fridge more. Now it dropped to 40 overnight. I’m debating whether to try unplugging, it, adding a 3rd layer (which will make a smaller box for the keg) or just keeping it running for longer. Anybody have any suggestions of what to do?

Oh, and I insulated under the floor with a pro pink and spray foam. Only one layer of pro pink though. Although now that it is build it may be a pain in the ass to tip it over and re-insulate under there.

I also have a 120mm pc fan blowing air from the freezer box to the inside of the keg box and 4 fans in the rear of the fridge circulating air over the coils.

[ssayonh]

Tall guy –

It sounds like your keg box is insulated similar to mine, and I even have a flat-back fridge. I wouldn’t bother with adding new insulation, but it might help if you purchase a temperature regulator connected to the fridge power supply. You can buy them on http://www.beveragefactory.com. I don’t have the digital, its just a dial that I set to 40 degrees (I have Guinness, so it’s a little warmer). You plug the fridge into that, and then plug the regulator into the wall. The copper mercury bulb drops into the keg-box (just insulate around it), and when the temp hits 40, it will kill the power on the fridge. It kicks on when the temp rises above 40 again. I have the power supply/fans continuously running to circulate air.

My only problem is that I have to empty the drip tray once/week. Not sure why i still get drips from the freezer plate, I have the fan system set up similar to yours. It still works fine, the compressor does not get too warm, and the temp stays right about 39.

Hope this helps. Ron

[ssayonh]

Oh yeah – one more thing —

Not sure what you meant, but you should have the fan blowing over the freezer plate back INTO the fridge, drawing from the keg-box. I know it sounds ass-backwards, but the key is to drag the warm air from the keg-box over the freezer plate and into the fridge. Then have at least one fan on the other side of the fridge blowing back out into the keg box.

I had this problem at first, and when I corrected it by turning the fan around, it cooled much quicker.

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