Materials, Leveling & Resizing Q’s(moved from ticket system)

[Anonymous]

These questions posted to support ticket system…

Quote:

I have several questions I can’t seem to find addressed other places, I guess because not many are built outside. I am a novice builder.
I want to build the 45?project on my covered patio. It will be out of the Florida sun but still subject to heat, humidity and blowing rain. (I will have to use pressure treated lumber for the base pieces)
1. The floor is not level. I estimate it falls about .75 to 1” in 10 feet to a deck drain. Should I shim the base pieces or add length as necessary to the vertical pieces?

2. I really want to build the 45? unit but might have to settle for the L. I will need to shorten the size of B3 by about -9” or it will be too big for my space. I will drop section C all together except build the end of B3 as if it were the end of C. I read in several places where section B is not changeable but then see in the gallery where several say it was modified. In studying the drawings, I can’t see a reason why B3 can’t be shortened. Am I overlooking the reason why B3 can’t be shortened?

3. I want to use a 4 cu ft refrigerator that is 34”h 21.25”d 19”w in section A. It looks like it is about 34.5” high there if I am figuring right. Does it sound like this will fit? I guess I can notch out for it if necessary.
Thanks for any help.

Answers below…

[Anonymous]

Frankie:

First off, I might suggest you build the entire bar core from treated lumber & plywood. I lived in Naples Florida and the humidity can be nasty to OSB and untreated plywood.

Question 1:
If there is a level roof beam overhead, you can use that as the reference for cutting your leg lengths, otherwise shimming will work if you use enough of them to spread the weight. You don’t want a tippy bar. In my basement, I used the ceiling as a reference, measuring down to the bar height, then the remainder to the floor is the leg length…number each leg as you go so you don’t mix them up. I have a badly sloping floor too. Most basements have this problem due to floor drains.

Question 2:
You can omit either A or C or re-size A or C using the CHBD. B is not re-sizable using the CHBD, but you CAN re-size it manually. Remember, nothing is written in stone, some of the best projects use the plans as a guide, but there is no reason you have to follow them exactly.

Question 3:
A 34″ high fridge should fit – I am assuming you are placing it where the keg box is, right? Many have done it this way. The actual opening will easily fit a 35″h x 26.5″d x 20″w fridge or kegerator unit with a smidge to spare.

I hope that helps you.

Thanks & Have Fun!
Steve

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