Home Bar Forum › Forums › Home Bar Project Construction Questions › EHBP-03 Straight Kegger Bar › Portability of Kegger Bar?
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December 2, 2006 at 2:25 am #19009
I am planning on building the kegger bar but in a couple of years I will have to move, due to being in the military. I read a prior post saying that this bar is ideal to stay in place. What my question is, is there some way to make this bar in two pieces, split down the middle to make it easier for moving purposes? Or would this bar be fine for a move if built to according to the plans? Any other ideas you might have would be great.
December 31, 2006 at 9:39 am #19922I have not yet attempted to make my kegger, but I have gone over the plans and created some adjustments for my needs. If using the suggested 2×4 construction studs and 3/4″ oak plywood, it seems that the weight alone will increase greatly as construction continues. I’m making a 10.5′ long kegger and estimate the final weight at about 400+ pounds. Depending on the width of your doors, it may also not fit. If I were to move around often and had to have a bar, I think I would start with a small bar, get practice with finer details, acquireing better wood working skills (noting all mistakes), and when finally settled make a very nicely detailed bar. At the very least, if you are a home owner, it will add value and a lot of appeal if selling your house.
Hope this helps a bit.
Nick.January 16, 2007 at 4:20 pm #19927AnonymousI agree with nmaola. Start with somthing small for now and then move up once you’re settled in on a more permanent basis.
The idea for splitting in half wouldn’t be easy though. You’d have to make sure the top is removable inspite of the tap tower needing to be sealed pretty good while in use and you’d definitely only be able to make a single keg cooler, not a bigger one like I did.
I built a semi-portable straight Kegger Bar. It’s on heavy duty wheels. The real problem is definitely the weight. It took 4 guys to carry it (empty of course) down my back stairs to my basement. I had thought that during the Summer I would take the bar out on the deck, but that’s unlikely now given the overall weight.
Cappy
October 2, 2008 at 2:33 am #20244I have successfully made a semi-portable straight kegger bar. I was able to carry the entire thing in pieces up 5 flights of stairs (by myself) and have it reassembled in about 2 hours with the help of a nail gun, a power drill and some brackets. The only part which is a pain in the ass is the insulation of the kegerator since the fridge had to moved separately. So basically every time you move it you will most likely have to reinsulate with spray foam. I will upload pics as soon as I get my camera working.
But basically I built the base and side walls and left them apart. I incorporated the fridge such that it would sit away from the walls and insulated chamber for the keg would be in the center of the bar. I also shrunk the final length down to 6 feet. The work counter was also built separately, as was the bar top. For the bar top I also put a black granite tile top. For the back, I measured and built the door and rear paneling separately, tried to fit it, then took it apart. For the rear panel I used a piece of veneer oak plywood so that it would cover the screws after putting it all together. For each separate section, I framed and put most of the finish wood on it prior to moving. I nailed the corner trim pieces on after putting it in my apartment.
As far as venting for the rear coils of fridge, I placed a fridge about 4 inches from the right side wall (when standing in the back of the bar as a bartender would), and placed the powersupply, and powerstrip for running the fridge and powersupply for the fans in that gap. I attached 4 small PC fans to the piece of plywood I screwed over the back where that gap is and aimed 2 out and 2 in to get a good air circulation in there. I drilled a series of small holes and screwed the fans behind those holes so that the air would flow through the wood and so no drunk person chops their fingers off. I also drilled a hole for the power strip to be plugged in to a wall socket at the bottom. I also made one last insulated wall to be placed in and bracketed down so that the door would fit properly.
It took a little bit more work, but since the side walls basically slide into place anyway in the base of the bar, I figured if I made the front wall also slide into place and the countertop and bar top just be bracketed down then it shouldnt be too big a deal. The only tough part I found was insulating properly. Do NOT use DAP foam insulation. Great Stuff works so much better and expands to fill your gaps, were DAP does not.
I’ll upload pics as soon as I get them. I am not taking my bar apart again to show you all the pieces, but I will point them out in the pics.
October 19, 2010 at 10:14 pm #20483AnonymousApril 16, 2011 at 2:57 am #20595I’m looking for a portability solution as well. Because I will be moving my bar with great regularity, I want a solution that will be permanent but not one that will permanently put pressure on the wheels. I found this on Youtube and I’m seriously considering adding a similar frame/mechanism around the bottom. I’ll put the lever on the side that will always be against the wall and actuation will be on the bartender’s side. I’ll post picures if it works out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=122w40ZBrJg
Adam
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