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That looks like a slightly modified version of EHBP-09. Looks like they eliminated the keg box section, which is easy enough to do on your own.
Just don’t build it.
I do not see the attachment.
The best method is to use two large bar clamps and a pocket hole jig kit. First, be sure your mating surfaces are perfectly square, next mark the area where you will need to drill the pocket holes and drill them.
To assemble, lay the boards on a flat surface and apply glue to the edges that meet…next place your bar clamp on the work to hold it tightly. Finally insert the pocket screws and allow to dry. Makes for a very strong joint.
Here is the Kreg Master system for pocket hole joinery: http://www.rockler.com/kreg-jig-k4ms-master-system/?sid=AF523
and here is the cheaper Kreg R3 system: http://www.rockler.com/kreg-r3-pocket-hole-system/?sid=AF523
watch the product demo videos to learn how pocket hole joinery works.
I think there’s a post on this already, but you are correct, there is no instruction for than part, but if you look at page 14, the color rendering, you can see the board in place as the foot rest…part 11.
I’ll update the doc. Thanks!
Envirotex
20″ is incredibly tight.
I recommend a minimum of 32″, but if less works for ya, go for it.
By far your best solution is to use LED lighting. You can use solid colors, but the 300 LED multicolor sets are the best and offer the ability to change lighting for different moods. These LED strips are mounted with a sticky tape that is on the back, but I recommend adding silicone or some other adhesive to make sure it stays put.
If you are electronically inclined and know how to use a soldering iron, these 300 LED strips can be cut at pre-marked lengths and connected together to form segments that can cover other areas, like your bar back all from the same controller. The strops are coated with a soft plastic, so you must remove a small amount of the coating in order to solder 4 wires to interconnect the segments. They come in 16 foot sections and if you don’t need that much, just hide the extra or black out sections with black plastic tubing.
If you cut the strips, you will need a light 4 conductor wire that you can probably find on Amazon. Four conductor Telephone wire is best, stranded, not solid, 22ga.
Find the entire kit in our Blog at > https://www.barplan.com/blog/300-multicolored-led-strip-lights-with-remote-control/
The solution is very simple: Once you get your arm rail molding, test fit it on your existing overhang…if it looks like too much overhang for your taste, trim back your bar top as needed. This can be done easily by setting your circular saw to 3/4″ depth, draw a line and trim off the top later, then do the same to the bottom layer, retaining the proper profile for your molding.
Your raw measurements are correct. Here’s some more detail on cutting the angles.
Please note: If doing just the B section, cut 73 & 75 about 3 or 4 inches longer than show then trim back to your desired overhang depth.
Attachments:
Doing the standard configuration, yes, 4″ would be the approx. overhang.
If modifying using “duckbill” or as we call it, Chicago Style Arm Rial Molding, you can approach it one of two ways…Either add a second step back layer to the top to match the profile of the duckbill rail you make or buy, or add a lower lip to create the step profile you need for your rail. When adding a second top layer, you will increase the height of the bar by 3/4″ (.75″) – doing the lower lip method keeps the same bar height. The lower lip is typically glued and clamped in place. You can add a few screws 1 3/8″ screws in place of clamps. Clamping is best.
The lower lip method will also extend your overhang, so if you want to do that mod, you can trim back the bar top as desired.
The only rule of thumb for over hang is that is approximately “one hand” deep. This was determined by visiting countless bars and measuring the overhang with my hand. It’s rarely deeper than that, but when it comes to bars, anything goes.
One word answer YES – this is discussed in many parts of this forum.
Resizing and/or laying out the bar in the opposite direction is not difficult. Just examine the base and work from there. If you want it a foot longer or shorter, just add or subtract a foot from the length related base parts. Pages 11, 12 and 13 are most helpful.
To modify the Side Leg (B section), you would add or subtract to base parts 9,11 and 13.
To modify the Main Leg, add or subtract from parts 1, 2, 3 and 7.
Once the base is resized, add the vertical parts.
Next, for the side leg, you would add or subtract the same amount as the bottom for parts 26, 30 and 32.
For the main leg, add or subtract the same as your base changes for part 31.
At this point you have a fully modified core framework from which all other remaining parts can be referenced.
It seriously requires no more than third grade math skills.
Unless you’re standing in water, there’s no need for treated.
Any hardwood used on this or any of the bar projects is intended as trim, which will be visible as a final wood layer. In this case, I’m assuming these are the squared arm rest and foot rest boards. If you have the cash, use Oak, but if it is too pricey or want a rustic bar, go with select pine.
If you REALLY want to make it look nice, any bar top can be modified for Chicago style arm rail molding. EHBP-09 is a good plan to study for that technique. Bar rail molding can be found here > https://www.barplan.com/store/molding.html
There are countless ways to do this and a visit to the gallery might give you more ideas before you decide which way to go. The plans are NOT written in stone.
