[bartender_adm]

The EHBP-04 is not yet working with the CHBD. Just lengthen the base and top support parts for the main section. It’s not difficult at all.

[bartender_adm]

I know a guy who can do 12′ cherry 5 1/2″ arm rail for $310 per 12 foot section, but it’s special order. Let me know if you are interested by opening a support ticket at: https://www.barplan.com/helpdesk

[bartender_adm]

That’s a pretty small space for the bar. Is it possible to move the wall back 3 feet? That would make for a more comfortable bar area without taking too much away from the back room. Either way, I’d recommend cutting enough of the wall out to build a bookcase style bar back. Who knows, with a little ingenuity you could build your door as part of the bar back creating a secret doorway.

Another option is to build a normal height bar top support using the “wall method” – Then place shallow cabinets (24″) behind the bar. I’ll draw something up & be back later…

[bartender_adm]

Here is a one other option, but it has it’s pros & cons…
Pros – allows for bar back space, requires no second door.

Con – eliminates half your available seating…probably fits 4 or 5 stools.
Requires you to shorten main leg by about 40″.

Because your room is so narrow, the bar back would have to be on one of the side walls, not the front wall…the back wall is possible if you could have a built in bar back that would extend into your back room by 12 to 16 inches and require you to knock out a section of wall.

[bartender_adm]

Jack:

I don’t think anyone wanted to touch this one, you’re attempting to jam 10 lbs of meat into a one pound bag.

I’d get out a tape measure and graph paper to lay it out, but you are correct about the limited size you have available. You can modify the bar to shorten a leg to allow for a little more space.

Can you scan a rough drawing to show where your door is?

I drew up a simple layout that might help, but I know nothing of your door layout.

See attached drawings…

Fig 1 – default layout for your room size
Fig 2 – shifted bar to eliminate keg box section, but leave a slim 35″ for seating. It’s cozy, but it’ll work, however, you’d need an extra door on the back wall or a flapper door in the bar top to access the back bar.

You could also rotate the bar CCW 90 degrees and have the keg box section against the wall, then just shorten the main leg to allow you to SQUEEZE behind the bar. However that eliminates one side of seating.

I’m working on a sample of that option…

[bartender_adm]

Typically the side against the wall will not get arm rail molding, so take that into consideration. There is no right or wrong way to do this. I would simply remove omit the arm rail, bar overhang and foot rest from the side that attaches to the wall.

If that shortens the bar too much (should be less than 6″), you can always add length using the CHBD.

[bartender_adm]

your very welcome – send photos, we’d like to admire your handiwork too!

[bartender_adm]

The gallery has a lot of projects that use bottle caps, coins, corks, and even hockey pucks sealed in envirotex. I try to tag them with keywords when I see them so try using the search function.

[bartender_adm]

where did you post photos to?

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