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Yes, I skinned the gutter with both solid 1/4″ oak and 1/4″ oak plywood. I also used solid oak outside corner trim.
Could you use 1/4 inch plywood or 2×4 as a form and bar clamps to hold it tight against the edge. Now, how to keep the envirotex from leaking into the cracks or sticking to your form ? Would a coating of oil or Pam etc…keep it from stickin until the envirotex cured enough to hold ite shape?
Use a filler piece that matches the wood / finish on the bar front. The same concept used for kitchen cabinet upper shelves. Yes, there will still be a small gaps at the top and sides but, it will be much better than a wide open space. moulding could also be used along the wall side to hide that side Remember to cut the wood so the grain directions match and the grains look close.
Glad everything worked out for you.
Pretty much yes, just shorten all pieces to your desired length. Remember if there are any cross members located within the 3′ you are eliminating they may need to be moved in. But, if support is good perhaps they could also be eliminated.
Nice job !
As dumb as this sounds I think the best thing to do is lay out the plywood at the store. Try to pick two sheets that match or should I say the grain patterns look natural together, even if you have to offset the sheets and waste some material. In your case, you want the top to look as if it was one piece not two joined.
You don’t have much choice but to butt joint the ends seeing the total length is 16 ‘ and each sheet is 8 ‘. What might help is if you buy a tinted (coloured) oil based paint crayon that matches the colour of the red oak grain. Remember to match the colour after the stain is aplied if doing so, stores always have examples of finished product on wood samples. What this will do is allow you to do is colour in to line up or add grain for the affect of one piece if needed. Don’t go overboard as it then may be obvious what you did. Perhaps testing on two scrape pieces first then finishing will help determine what amount or methed gives the best results ?
Might not be a bad idea to help the glue bold the ends tightly together by adding (glueing and screwing) a small piece of plywood which overlaps each end under that area from the bottom side. But add this piece once the top is in place so you know if any obstructions or the size is limited.I lined my bar with maple plywood because the grain looked nice and somewhat matched the oak exterior grain. Then what sealed the choice was that maple was cheaper than both oak and birch plywood. If you check the gellery you can see the inside finished in maple plywood.
Justin,
I installed my bar directly on my basement carpet, did not cut any carpet away. I did install plywood on the bottom to help spread the weight out and hopefully make less of a crushing imprint should I ever move the bar.
That way your noy left with a section of the room without rug !Once finished and you line the inside with wood,store your bottles and add a fridge that bar is HEAVY. You and a few friends would need to work together to tip it over. Look in the gallery to see pictures of my bar. I put my bar end against a wall to fasten anchors but they were not needed. Again, if needed the bar can now easily well, not so easily be moved without issues of repair work to the floor or wall.
You know those clear rubber spacers you put under paper weights , lamps etc… to noy scratch table tops. Those are about 1/8″ and cheap to buy. If you add enough and space them out they may support enough to avoid your shatter / racking concern. Being clear they may be hardly noticed also ?
Why not just add some 2″x4″ braces under the bar top securely fastened to the frame. I would think that would take any flex out of the plywood. My bar is covered in tile and the grout has not cracked.
I have about 3 ft between my bar and the wall. The plans width for the bar top seems to be fine also. My overhang is around 4 -5″.
Try using ultra fine steel wool between coats and use a tack cloth to remove any residual. I used what was recommended also when applying. If using a water based finish you might think twice before using steel wool and try a very very fine sand paper. remember all you want to do is scuff the surface and remove any small particles and imperfections, not remove the coating.
If you can put it back together why not clean off the old glue best you can then apply more. Drill a couple holes preferably lower than eyesight and add wood screws to help hold corner together. You can then buy the wood plugs to fill the hole on the surface. Once sanded, stained and finished you should hardly notice them. Remember to try and match the plug grain if possible to arm rest to help blend even more.
Did you have a good fit to start with ? I find it hard to belive that the corner once glued would come apart unless the corner was put under great stress after the fact.Could you buy one or two of the type of shocks used to lift a hatchback door or lift trunk open. I’m sure Princess Auto or another auto parts store must sell them. Atleast you know the bar top will be securely in place at all times. And opening it would be just a matter of pushing down but, obviously a piano hinge etc… would still be needed.