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I have several pictures posted in the gallery. put the check box on in the owners name and search the word probak118.
i actually used different size tiles and different thicknesses. it took 3 pours but turned out great. People think i have a glass top over the tiles.Yes you are correct that’s how it works. The box or web site I thought mentioned about how thick / pour you can go ? Most important though is to seal the seam between your bar top and the trim. If you don’t you’ll have low spots where the envirotex ran out. Use matching colour of wood filler or even urethane etc… to seal the entire seam.
Also, the torch seemed to work better at removing trapped air bubbles after the pour.I think I waited about 24 -48 hrs, it gave information on the box. I also used extra fine steel wool and a tack clothe to remove any fine particles from the surface. Then also used a vaccum in case any particles were missed. I figured that since I was in the last stages of the bar, do it right and take my time. From the sounds of it you’ll have your bar for the holidays !
Might help by sealing any cracks or holes that otherwise would cause a depression in the envirotex ? It’s a lot thinner so, you would notice it dripping from somewhere sooner. Probably not a bad idea !
1/ I used the 1 gal kit on my 8′ bar but poured about 1/4 – ” thick.
2/ Yes just be sure all seams where product could leak down are sealed. Use wood filler or tape from underneath. Use a torch to remove air bubbles, works better than a hair dryer. Instructions tell you thickness max for each pour, I poured two seperate times.
If my memory is still there ? Was there not something about it not being for exterior use ? Perhaps direct UV light may affect it over time, my bar is in front of a south facing window; but have not seen yellowing as of yet. Maybe indirect or diffused light is not a problem ?
Why not visit a Home Depot,Rona etc… and see how thick the glass shelves are there? Try looking at shelves as close as you can to the size your thinking of using.
Very nice job and from the looks of the elecrical conduit used. Your bar could possibly be rated as explosion proof ( LOL )
1/ I think you should glue them down with wood glue directly to the bar top. Why take a chance of them floating within the E while it sets. But, thinking of it it now that might look cool coasters at slightly different levels ?
2/ Just be sure to seal the cracks or seems on the underside with tape etc… to stop possible drips from coming thru. If you choose to take top off and seal. Be sure to keep the top ferfectly level so the finish is also level when placed back on the bar.
3/ I split the pours in two. I think it said that you were only limited to how thick each coat can be ?
4/ Use a propane torch to remove air bubbles before the coat cures. The hair dryer method did not work as well for me. As the instructions say ventilate the area. The more I think of it maybe placing some coasters under the sealer coat and some above it may really look cool ? Might give the top a feeling of depth when looking at it ?
Exactly, first see what colour stain you like best on your type of wood, or matches existing furniture in the room. Then, try it on scrap wood you have left over, try letting the stain sit for different time intervals before wipping off the excess. Decide which one you like the best.
I also like using oil based but I hear that the water based stains are pretty good now. I use a gel or rub on stain, they don’t run like liquids do and I use a rag to apply and remove the excess. More control when applying I find ?
I also used envirotex on the bar top works great. When finishing the rest I like to apply atleast 2 -3 coats. Using ultra fine steel wool between coats and a tac clothe will give you a very smoothe finish. Be sure not to use water based products here. Not sure is the steel wool residual left on if any would maybe start to form rust spots then ? Take your time and apply thin coats, runs will not be something you want.Not sure, did you let the first coat sit the recommended time before applting the second coat ? I know in water excess air bubbles make it appear milky but air bubbles in this stuff appear as clear bubbles. Did it happen when using the heat to remove the bubbles, or did it appear before or after the second coat ?
your just like me, bull headed. Good Luck.
try looking in the gallery. Then if you find something you like try and contact the person via pm.
Was there any type of silicone on the surface that would have repeled the envirotex. I’m speaking from experience because that happened to me. I sealed some edges before my first pour. Where I had, the envirotex did not spread to. I had to remove all traces of the silicone before the envirotex spread properly.
Have you tried contacting the manufacturer. You never know, they might tracethe batch via the info on the box you still have I hope ? If anyone can answer the acetone question they can. Besides you never know they might have suggestions and maybe even send you replacement product “satisfaction guarantee” ?
Sounds like you did everything right otherwise ?I used a 4″ wide plastic drywll puddy knife. Not to smoothe it but just spread it around so it was covering the whole bar top. Once it covered the entire surface , it should have leveled itself. I really have a hard time believing that you must heat the cans a little. Before you put another coat on it. did you maybe put a layer that was too thick. I think the can said 1/8″ thick at a time. There must be a season for that ? I had to makw two seperate pours. This stuff is not cheap, might be wise to figure out if possibly what went wrong rather than repeating the same thing and same outcome.