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How thick is the difference? Pouring another coat does seem to be the next step. I agree that perhaps too much hardener could have been mixed ? Causing set up to occur too quickly and it could not self level in time ?
That was my next question also. What cuts were made or piece added to the underside / edge to meet the bar top edge at the prpoer angle ? To give you the finished position of the arm rail and at the same time good support and fastening surface.
Just so I understand properly, you clamped a 2 x4 on both sides (parallel) of the table saw blade. Using them as a guide so the same cut is made each pass at a 43 degree angle. Slightly raising the blade each pass.( the same way people would make the cove in home made water skis etc…)
To round off the sharp edge created by both ends of the blade where it exited the wood. Did you just use a router or sand by hand ? Very nice job and you saved a lot of money.
Your right about rsising the blade only 1/8″ or less per pass is the secret. Especially if your trying to do this with a hard wood such as oak.slaterz1,
Your right, you’ll need to alter the plans to suit what you plan on doing. The 8 ft straight is pretty much open on the inside anyway. So, that should not be a problem to customize to suit your needs.
measuring my bar side I estimate it to be more than 38″ also. Cut at 38.5″ ,you can always take some off not put it back on right?
I think I only used one layer of plywood on the top. But, I added three extra 2 x 4 on edge under the top a top the framwork. Have not noticed any any cracks in the grout or envirotex top yet.
bulldogx’
I used 3/4″ red oak outside corner moulding. Worked perfect, I can’t upload pictures here because they are too large. Send me a private message with your personal e mail address. Then I will send you detailed pictures
There are two things that I can think could happen if done before assembly.
Scratching a piece then having to restain. You may end up with a spot that the stain is a little darker that the rest. But then again staining it tight corners is tough and the same may occur when you push hard to make contact.
If you have pieces that are a tight fit applying a finish before assembly may make it too tight for aeembly. Or, the fit you get is different from the one prior to finishing.
For what it’s worth I think most people finish after assembly but there is nothing wrong with staining a piece that will become hard to do if assembled first. Staining would have less of an impact when done prior to assembly. It’s up to you.
There are two things that I can think could happen if done before assembly.
Scratching a piece then having to restain. You may end up with a spot that the stain is a little darker that the rest. But then again staining it tight corners is tough and the same may occur when you push hard to make contact.
If you have pieces that are a tight fit applying a finish before assembly may make it too tight for aeembly. Or, the fit you get is different from the one prior to finishing.
For what it’s worth I think most people finish after assembly but there is nothing wrong with staining a piece that will become hard to do if assembled first. Staining would have less of an impact when done prior to assembly. It’s up to you.
I would think just using screws would be fine but if you never plan on taking your bar apart add a little glue also.If item five is the 85″ back supprt for the floor I did glue and screw mine to the (scrap) pieces used for spacers. Don’t forget ,the plans are made for an “easy home bar” that you can disassemble. If you don’t see yourself ever taking the bar apart to move to another house then, use a little glue. Trust me if done right these bars look great, people will want to keep the bar in the house if sold. Anyway , the bar is heavy but nothig 5-6 frieds and a fridge dolly couldn’t move.
Fork,
Don’t worry about it, put your floor in first. Once complete with inside shelving this bar is pretty heavy and stable. I don’t think many of us actually anchored to the floor. Carpet the entire area, then when your bar is framed and you know exactly where you want it. Cut out the area that you will be installing tile. That way you can experiment a little with the placement of the bar. But, if your already set for bar placement install both tile and carpet now.
You can always anchor before you finish the inside part of the bar to the floor or wall if needed. But, I think you’ll find it won’t be necessary.MacGyver,
Why not look at puck lights. They a mainly used for lighting up counter tops and attach underneath your upper cabinets. The only thing I can think of is if they are too much of a spot light effect rather than a flood of light upwards when countersunk and bottles were placed over them?
Rope style lighting placed in a dado cut to form a channel a conceal it would also work. But, again would this style light give off enough light for the affect you want? Of the two I think the rope lighting would allow you to illuminate each bottle when placed over the channrl. If more light is needed you could make the channel big enough to plce two rows of lighting in it.When you finish the inside with shelves etc… You will probably add vertical sections to seperate areas also. If you use 3/4 plywood etc.. this will aslo give additional supprt if it runs from bottom to underside of the 2 x 6s. I don’t see the need to make an additional side frame.
Tim,
I’m the guy who tried silicone glad you read my comment. Don’t even think of it ! I don’t think the Envirotex would seal a 1/8″ seam. You would end up with a depression where it ran into the opening.
I ended up sealing the edges with tinted wood filler (plastic wood) “Lepage tinted Wood Filler” The light oak matched my trim perfectly. You could even spread a little layer of varnish or polyurethane I would think. If your concerned the wood filler may not have sealed all seams before the Enviritex is applied. But, I did not do it. I used my finger and forced the wood filler in the area where the bar top and edge moulding meet. I don’t even think I let it dry before applying the Envirotex. Most of the wood filler was dry anyway, that stuff dries in no time. To be safe I also put masking tape on the underside of the bar where ever I thought there may be a chance of some running thru due to a seam. Amazingly there were a few spots where I noticed Hardened Envirotex under the masking tape. The goodthing about this stuff is, after you coat the bar top no spill will find it’s way anywhere but on the bar top.
Latex caulk might work too but, the wood filler is tinted to match many shades of wood .It would match better I think?Not a problem. The plans themselves will give you about 3 – 3.5″ overhang. You can even go a little more if it suits you, need more leg room etc.. Some people have talked about putting their bar on castors so, you know it is stable to do that.
Once finished the bar is quite stable but nothing is stopping you from anchoring to the floor or side wall if you feel it needs it.