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What is the purpose of putting the 4″ section against the wall you loose the seating space then ? Do you just want extra shelving room or room for a sink etc…?
Have you thought about simply building a straight bar and adding a bar back behind the bar itself or a small work area on the side wall.
Anyhow, either one will work for you. I think your only concern is which one will give you the best use of space under the bar top.AO,
I’m glad to hear all worked out for you. I posted the pics but don’t think admin approved them in time for you to view before doing yours.I after mixing both parts used 1 gallon total on my bar top. Did you use the entire 2 gallons on your bar yet ?
AO,
Yes I just posted pics. Once Admin approves they should be viewable.
Do a search using the key word envirotex or pour on you will get all the answers to your questions. And, yes it will work with what your looking for.
AO,
Why not try gluing the ribbons down first using wood glue. This will keep them flat and no air will get under them. The medals themselves won’t be an issue. Do not use clear silicone. Silicone will repel the envirotex. I’m sure the wood glue will workbut, try it out on a pice of fabric and a scrap piece of wood first.
thesnake,
I would seal the underside anyway. I thought my edges were fine also. It took evernight to see that the envirotex had slowly oozed into a openening.
A little work now could save you a lot of headaches later like I had.Great idea . Now clear silicone won’t work because it will repel the envirotex. I tried it already !
But, why not use a piece of plywood that has the holes for the pucks already cut out of it. You could lift the plywood with spacers so that only a portion of the puck extrudes. There must be a holesaw the size of a puck. If needed you could seal any gaps from the underside of the plywood. Finish the plywood to match the bar’s finish.
The extruded portions of the pucks would still give you a 3D effect. Now you would have to use less envirotex, all depends how much ypu extrude the pucks from the plywood. To seal the edges of the plywood be sure to use a tinted wood filler to match the bar finish. This is where I tried clear silicone. IT WON’T WORK.
I know it seems like a waste to remove most of the plywood for the puck holes but the savings in the volume of envirotex needed is worth it. Just thought I’d add my idea of an alternative solution.the snake,
If I recall it said up tp 1/4″ pours at a time. So, it would take about 5 seperate pours. No reason why it would not work but might take quite a bit. My bar top was poured to about 1/4 to 3/8″ thick and took a total of 1 gallon. You may need to look at cost factor here.
Can you fill the bottom 3/4 of the space with glass then the top portion with envirotex ? This might be cheaper and you don’t need to worry about breaking the glass top because the envirotex is on the surface ?lendog,
You can use the 2 x 4 supports that are on edge that support the 3/4″ plywood bar top. If your worried about splitting the 2 x 4 just make pilot holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws being used. You can even add more 2 x 4 supports to give you more fastening points with any scrap 2 x 4 pieces you have.
Also,if you don’t want to use screws that that are longer. Just bore holes a little larger than the screw head half way through the 2 x 4 on edge. This will countersink your screw. Easier to work with shorter screws. Remember to measure how much your screw is countersunk and subtract that from the length of screw now needed. Better to be a little short on the screw than having the screw come thru the laminate top because it was tightened too much.
You also do not need to make a pilot hole in the laminate top. Many of us have slipped and have had the drill bit exit the top !!!!1 / Look in bar pics people sent in for an idea but, you should be able to modify a little to suit your needs. Look at the whole plan from start to finish for possible problems that any alterations might affect first.
2/ Either way would work.Boxed foot rail may give more stability. But, you can always fasten from the inside to whatever flooring the bar sits on. Bottom line what ever looks good to you.
3/ Can’t comment on arm rail but, your idea sounds like it would work.
4/ For sure pressure treated on ground contact material. Maybe even add the material used to treat railway ties and hydro poles (cryasolt ) ? (Spelled wrong I know).More cost to use p.t. for all I know but probably would be safer in the long run. Would the treated plywood affect the desired finish colour you hope for when stained etc… ?
5/ A uv resistent finish would be needed that is made for outdoor use. See if a natural material such as varnish meets your specs. The employees in that dept probably have heard it all and would be your best resource.
Good Luck
Good question. You probably don’t wand to try and screw down into the blocks from the top . I not sure if you could drill into glass block.
Why not use that plastic track that is used for holding the blocks in alignment and fasten it with the bottom side of your bar top. Then, use silicone or maybe even construction adhesive (in the tube) to adhere the track to the glass blocks.
It may take e few tubes since the blocks have that space that must be filled in to allow a greater surface area contact than just the edges on each side of the block.tantrum4,
Now that is funny. Please bear with me here. I’m trying to imagine the face on the person when you are insisting that the oak your looking at is not dark enough for you !
Now, I’m back on my chair from laughing. Hey don’t get pissed at me now, that’s how we learn. there is never a dumb question right !
Yes,your right. You must buy the wood you see as it is. Usual it is red oak.Then, you choose a colour stain that appeals to you. Look at, and pick the grain pattern that you think looks best. You want to see the grain probably so, pick a transparent stain not a solid . You may even want to think of buying a gal stain they are easier to work with I find. Home Depot seems to have the best variety to choose from.
Remember that the longer you leave a stain on the wood before you wipe off the excess the darker it will be. Oak is a very hard wood so, this is not as important . But, the same would apply to an extent.
So, go out and pick your colour, they always have samples that will show how the stain will look on that type of wood.Did not know Dap had a foam from a can also. But, if it cleans up easier than great stuff, us it. What a mess if your not careful. Wouldn’t you be able to compare both by reading the cans. You would think they’d be close.
Sorry I coulddn’t help anwer your question . Dap is a very well known brand for sealants etc.. It must be a quality product as well.Leo,
Since it will be outside, why not stick with natural a substance like varnish. I know that the pour on two part apoxy is great for inside but not for outside use. Just be sure to buy a finish material that is made for use where uv rays are present.
Correct, if you were to hold the rails exactly as they sit on the bar. All you would need to do is cut each side at the proper 45′ angle. Why are you needing to do a bevel cut and a 45′ cut at the same time ?