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Trust the admin about leak proofing the edge first. Don’t try and to use clear silicon . It repels envirotex too !!!! Use a coloured wood filler instead. TRUST ME I KNOW Ha. Ha.
Why not have a friend or family member send you some from back home ?
Gregory Kurtz wrote:The plans don’t include how/where/when to install the bottom,back,side, and beer gutter trimTime to rewrite the plans!
Too much is incomplete.I think your expecting too much . Trim is the final touches to a prject. You can use it to hide minor flaws, enhance a projects appearance etc.. It also comes in a variety of styles, sizes.
Trim is too individual for there to be a how too, what size answer. Everyone of us have different taste. If you think of trim as a extra that is used to personalize a individual project. There is no way plans could tell you what,where to install it that will suit everyone.
We all need to make our bars as individual as we are and the final trim work allows this part of the project.The only time I’ve ever seen a 2 x 4 that was actually that size was if you tore down a wall from a “OLD” home. That piece of lumber stuck out like a sore thumb and was usually made of hard wood !! Stock that size is a collector’s item !!! Ha ,Ha. :laugh:
Be sure to buy good casters. When finished, shelves,etc… the bar is heavy.
I bought 1″ x 2″ x 8′ oak stock @ Home Depot.
I think it would be hard to make plans for shelves etc.. Because, everyone has different size items and different items they want behind their bar. There are general ideas to view on this site but, to add dimentions that would work foreveryone’s needs would be impossible.
Just look at the items you want behind the bar and make a diagram of where you think each thing should be. You then can measure the height and width needed in each portion. You can even use adjustable shelving to change and move items if needed. For that matter, you could even make the vertical walls seperating each section portable by securing them in place with small “L” brackets only.Why not continue the arm wrest around the side(s) till it reaches the back. Then, make a profile of the end with a piece of oak and cap it so you don’t see the hollow of the end.
Why don’t you secure the top from the bottom side of the bar ? Bore some holes partway through the 2 x4 supports so the screws you need won’t be so long.
A 2 x4 is about 3.5 ” wide plus 0.75″ for the top thickness = 4.25 ” . If you bore a hole 1.75″ into the 2×4 ,a 2″ wood screw will leave about 0.5″ of space till the screw would would pierce the surface of the top. Just be carefull not to tighten too much and do this.
You could always use wood glue if you were not worried about taking the bar apart ever. Just my thoughts. Others may have other ideas also.Sure you can. I never knew they made a sheet of plywood 10′ long . You said it’s not veneer. Even better, no seam to worry about. Must be a little pricey but, sometimes you pay for what you get.
I think you both may be out of luck ?? If you need to have a seem by using two seperate sheets. Th best you could do is try to match the grain pattern as best you could. It may even mean wasting half a sheet to get the best grain match up .
Is there any way you can make this problem look like you planned it ? I mean could you make the top in say 3 sections with some sort of devider (strip of solid stock) seperating each section. If you had to butt joint ends anyway why not make it less obvious with a space between them. The contrast in wood grain direction may not look that bad, especially if you experiment with different widths of solid stock.Spend a lot of money !!! If you look at various sites you will see they sell traditional arm rail by the foot. I would expect that’s why you see most of us generally only use other stock and add corner mouldings etc… Get ideas from the pictures of finished projects.
I used 1 x 2 oak stock and added oak corner moulding. Have not had a complaint yet.I had heard that you could use a hair dryer to remove air bubbles. I followed instructions and used a propane torch worked great.
Yes, be sure to carefully seal ALL seams along the edges (trim). This stuff is quite thick and looks fine but, if any gaps exists you’ll find out in the morning. Trust me !!!!Sorry Chvaka, I can’t send you a private message. Site sais I’m only a guest and not registered. I’ve only been a member for almost 3 years now !!!
Have asked Administrator why I can’t see any of the old forums guess that’s why ?
If you e-mail me @ probak118@firehousemail.com I would be happy to send you pictures.
Maybe Administrator will read this and help me out also ?????? Talk to you soon.
???My bar top is actually ceramic tiles. I used two part apoxy to cover tiles to give the top a smoothe , glass like finish. It is probably 1/4″ thick. Some refer to it as “pour-on” I believe it is advertised now on this site. Look in the finishing ideas etc.. It’s expensive, I paid here in Canada $130 for a 1 Gal kit. Had to order from a paint store, Home Depot did not carry it.
If you use urethane etc.. make sure it’s UV resistant and resist yellowing over time. I used a water based type for easy cleaning and fast drying. I forget what name but think it was “Urethane ” brand ? I also used a gel type stain, a lot easier to use no mess at all. It was also the same brand.