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You basically cut some small plywood spacers so when your arm rail is sitting in the miter saw (compound), it is oriented the same as when it is in it’s final installed position.
Below are two photos, one showing how to do it the WRONG way, the other showing the RIGHT way using spacer supports.
Note: I suggest using something more narrow that the 1×4’s I found lying around. 1×2 spacers will allow the work to be closer to the fence, which is safer and provides better accuracy.
for what plan? you posted in the general area.
First question: Do you have an exposed freezer plate and does it develop ice or frost on it.
Second concern: If you can feel air blowing between the barn wood siding, you’ve obviously got a MAJOR leak!
Third – styrofoam has a very low R factor, less than 1.5r per 1.5″ thickness. It’s not a great insulator. Pro Pink is closed cell and does not allow infiltration and is R-5 per inch of thickness. That’s why it’s recommended. You should use a double layer of 1.5″ panels if possible for a total of R-15. Lining the box with scrap aluminum sheeting also helps.
Did you insulate below the floor?I always suggest that once you complete the box, test fit your kegs, then if there is still ample room inside the keg box, install an additional layer of pro pink panels INSIDE the box to take up the extra space, but be sure you have enough space for air flow.
CO2 tank placement – it’s placed OUTSIDE the keg box NOT inside!
Why? because every time you need to check or adjust it, you open the door and lose all the cold (reintroduce heat).Filler first, then sand, then stain, then poly or Envirotex.
I’ve never heard of filler that didn’t take stain. Read the container before you buy though.Also, if you go to a larger keg box, consider using a compact FREEZER, not fridge. AND, add extra fans to keep are circulating, you don’t want to block the opening to the cooling unit.
The new compact freezers get considerably colder than the fridge units.
for available models, see http://www.barmarket.com
Also, try – http://www.denoon.com/Bar-Rail-C42.aspx
DeNoon Lumber is the least expensive we have found.
http://www.denoon.com/Bar-Rail-C42.aspxLooks like you did the necessary brain work, so just go ahead and buy what you need. Some items (finish items) are optional and not included on the material shopping list.
either will work, what did you decide?
I installed a urinal instead of a full toilet. For the crowd that comes over to my place, this REDUCES the change of someone pooping, although I can see waking up one morning and finding a dump in the urinal.
Josh – great idea! I was thinking you used the controller from the old machine to light the lights, but using xmas lights is brilliantly simple. I might suggest using the LED variety, otherwise changing bulbs might be a problem. Great Job!
tw – That model is best assembled using PL-200 construction adhesive and finish nails, or a finish naiver (air powered). The side panel itself forms the base on which you assemble the 2x framing.
You can also use screws from the plywood side into the 2 x boards.
The heads would be covered by the exterior finish panel.perth – same thing, use adhesive and finish nails for panels that you KNOW you’ll never remove. Decorative screws can be used for access panels (if needed on keg box models) or cover the seams & screw heads with a decorative trim board to cover the seam.
To attach the bar tender side hardwood trim boards, investigate “Pocket Hole Joinery” or use countersunk finish nails and putty the holes.
No special modifications other than simply omitting the unneeded sections / parts.
You mean a concrete top with wood arm rail molding?
1. Use treated lumber
2. Color it with Thompsons or similar.