[haylesan]

The hinge you suggested works, but it takes some minor modifications to the door. I had to miter the hinge into the door face so that it would fit under the oak trim without lifting it. The overlay on that hinge just isn’t enough to get the seal you’d need around the inside edge of the door. This hinge works great, once you miter it in place, but removing it later will be impossible. You can see I screwed the 2 screws in place, and then glued the 1 x 4 oak on top of the door. So, those 2 screws are there permanently! But I don’t really see a need to remove it later (famous last words), so it shouldn’t be a problem. I did end up drilling holes in the flat surface of the hinge and put 1.5″ screws through my plywood face and into the 2 x 4 frame behind it. I just didn’t trust the little 1/2″ screws that came with this set to support the weight of the keg door. So, I would probably use the same hinge style as this with the surface mounts instead of this one with the edge wrap if I could do it all over again. But when the door is closed, nobody can see the extra screws I drilled into it. They are covered by the 1 x 4 oak. I would have used this instead:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=26591

So, that’s what I needed to do to make this hinge work on the keg door. Hope that helps someone else.

Bill.

[attachment=0:1b7dbn64]IMG_3241.JPG[/attachment:1b7dbn64]

[haylesan]

Looks like the pin hinges at International Tool are discontinued as well.

Any other ideas on what kind of hinge to use? I’d like something that’s self closing, but it seems that every hinge out there assumes the inside of the door is flat. Which of course, the insulated keg door is not. So, that severly limits your options…

Thanks…

[Author]

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