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lilkev62 wrote:I would like to see some plans for an 8-sided poker table
If you want to get some good ideas check out the links on this page:
http://www.homepokertourney.com/tables_build.htm
Top of the page shows the long fold up table style (my style of choice) and the bottom of the page shows more of the 8 sided style of tables.
It’s not that hard to build one of these at all (compared to the bar) and personally I like this style over the 8 sided tables. You could use the information on the rails though and cut yourself a table top and you’d be all set.
scootbk wrote:i need help with cutting the angles, for the oak bar rail. i know the angle is at 45 degrees but what is the bevel cut at. having trouble matching the two peices together.any help would do
thanx
I didn’t have to do any bevel cuts for my armrails. I placed a piece on the bar top and then nailed together a piece underneath that to form the “side” of the rail (vertical portion). The ends of both pieces are cut at 45 to match the 45 cuts from the front pieces.
Not sure what you are doing different that you need bevel cuts for, so I’m not sure I can help much.
Gregory Kurtz wrote:The plans don’t include how/where/when to install the bottom,back,side, and beer gutter trimTime to rewrite the plans!
Too much is incomplete.I’ll agree the plans are not complete, nor are the “Easy” for someone who doesn’t have basic skills. I’m handy enough to get things done at my house, so they worked. I ended up using simply as a guide for basic overall dimensions.
If you use the plans to build the 2×4 frame skeleton, and just take a second to measure the inside bottom, and the three sides you’ll be fine.
I’d suggest you look at some of the other plans as I think they are more complete and better written. In fact, I wish now I would have followed the plans for the wet bar as it has a built in shelf area I would have liked. I can add shelfs to my current bar eaisly, however I think the wet bar plan is a better, easier, and more complete set of plans. Check that one out to see if it answers any of your questions.
By base floor I assume you mean the “bottom” of the bar on the inside. Simply cut this to the print dimensions and lay it down on the inside of the bar.
Foot rest is the same thing. You’ll have the spot framed out and once you put in the bead board (or whatever you use to face the bar) you’ll see where to lay down the 1×6 hardwood board.
Gregory Kurtz wrote:I am going in order according to the plans and I’ve come to step 5 (Cut bar top).1.) According to the plans of the bar top cut out dimensions, I assume the bar top will overlap on the sides by approx 1.5 inches and it will overlap on the front to accomodate the arm rest. Please correct me if I am wrong.
2.)When should I install the bar top. It doesn’t specify how or when in the plans. Please help.
1) I’m not 100% sure on the dimension of the overlap, but yes there is an over lap on three sides of the bar.
2) IIRC I put my top on prior to putting up the beadboard panels, but after all framing was complete. I put the top on and measured to determine the cut lenght I needed. I added the trim pieces last.
Why would you spend that kind of money for that! Wow… $650 is way too much.
You can go and buy a normal chest frezer and an seperate thermostat controller for it and turn a chest freezer into a keg box if you want for way less than that.
Do a seach for “chest freezer keg” and you’ll turn up a ton of links. You can get a 7.0 cuft. unit, an thermostat controller, and modify the top (so you can use it as a chest freezer still if you want) and be around $300. Now.. it won’t fit under your bar and if that’s a requirement then this doesn’t help.
If you have the space, do the above and build your back bar around the chest freezer so you can slide the freezer out from underneath the back bar to load and unload it and have storage.