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I’ve answered a similar question here that will hopefully help you.
The Fans are powered by a PC power supply but you can buy a 12v adapter also. The good thing about using a PC power supply is that the PC fans and power supply will have the correct connectors so it is literally plug them into the power supply.
If you chose to cut the connectors off, it is as simple as a red & black wire and thats all.
I just bought some LED lights from Costco. 8ft long (4 x 2ft). Multi colour with remote control, steady lights, flash etc etc for $28.
Think they’ll look good (but haven’t finished the bar so can’t say yet !)
Before you read this – I’m also a novice so there may/will be better ways than this.
I haven’t got any schematics but attached is a picture to show what I’m doing (I thought a picture would be better than a sketch I threw together).
Opologies for the rough sketches on the second picture but think it’ll make sense.
I used 2 110mm 12v PC fans available from any computer shop ($5 each). I was going to buy ones with blue LED’s in so light up the fridge but scrounged these from work so didn’t cost me. (I may buy a cheap USB type light and connect that)
The black metal piece you see is a standard computer rack cover that you can buy for $10 or so. You can get these with the fan holes in already and also a cover so you cant get fingers in there but again I was given one so just cut the holes in myself and if I put my fingers in there once I wont do it again
You’ll find it is a perfect fit across the width (19″) of the keg cooler and to screw in at each side without having to screw or glue onto the fridge itself.
The fans are facing different directions. One pulling air ‘out’ of the freezer and one pushing air ‘in’ to the freezer (so the air is continually rotating.)
The wires will be hidden better when I put a liner on the insides where the pink stuff is.
I also have one slightly smaller fan (not shown) that will fasten to the top of the keg cooler and blow cold air up into the tap itself to keep the lines cold. Not sure how I’m going to fasten this one yet so cant say.
These are powered by an old PC Desktop power supply that is sat on top of the freezer outside the cooler itself (the wires go through a small hole pushed through the pink stuff that will be filled with expanding foam). there are other posts on how to connect them up but it’s an easy black/red wire and that’s it.
I’ll add that I haven’t put my tap or a keg in yet so not 100% it’ll hold it’s temperature (I like my beer COLD) but I’m hoping it will. I’ve had it running with some bottles in and after a couple of days it was plenty cold enough so hoping it’ll be the same for a keg.
Hope this helps but sure someone will be along to correct me or explain better.
Sorry – just noticed that you cant read the text on the picture I made as when uploading it makes them small pictures
Hopefully the above text and picture help though.Oh yes, the dog has been a great help
Majority of trim is done (just the front corners and middle front). Door is done (haven’t found a latch yet or put metal on the inside). 2 fans in the cooler ready and working and one in ready to force cold air up the tap itself when installed – no metallic sheet (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/reflectix-duct-wrap-12×25/902353) inside the cooler yet but seems to be holding temperature quite well – I don’t have a thermometer !
Rather than sheet metal on the inside of the door could I use the same stuff I’m going to put on the inner walls (link above) to save a few $$’s ?
Only thing holding me up is the taps themselves (https://www.barplan.com/store/draft-beer/) as then I can finalize and drill the bar top and worktop (final layer of bar top in the pictures is temporary just so I can prepare the arm rails)
Thought I’d post these pictures though as I saw these lights in Costco for $28 and couldn’t resist
I’m just about to purchase the twin tap tower kit (http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/kegerator-conversion-kits-pid-RCK-ST-2.html) for my straight kegger bar but after some reading a lot of people have recommended perlick taps over taps supplied with a kit due to sticking when the tap isn’t used for a while.
I don’t see me having kegs all the time but when they are the taps will probably be used every 2-3 days (more when I first finish it granted!) and concerned that they will stick and I wont be able to pour anything easily !
Can these kits be upgraded to perlick taps and will they actually be needed ?!
No issues with cleaning the taps out weekly but I don’t really want to be cleaning the taps every day just so I can pour a pint or two frequently.
I’m sure someone will be along with a better reply/response to mine as I’m new to this also.
I’m near completion of building this bar with the edgestar compact freezer and wanted to be able to fit in 2 kegs.
a 1/2 keg is 16 1/8″ wide (http://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/sizes-keg-draft-beer-available-aid-11.html) so I made sure that there was 34″ between item 18 and item 20 on the keg box framing. If you are only wanting to fit in one keg then this dimension could be smaller and your decision really.
If you are making the keg cooler area smaller for one keg, just make sure that when you build the back corner frame you (step 6c – 6e) shorten as necessary so you can get the keg you want to use through the door
Already done – as attached
Pic 1 – The puppy enjoys sitting in the space to the right
Pic 2 – Painted, Final trim and electrics in
Pic 3 – Ready for the bar top and worktop (the piece on top is just a off cut of chipboard for sizing)The problem is now I (or wife cant
cant decide on how to have the bar top. I’m going to do the cove cut arm rail and leaning toward just an ply top, stained and envirotex but really cant decide.I haven’t bought the double tap yet and that is 3 weeks away so no major rush so can get on with the trim and the kep box door.
I just want it done now !!! Goal is Oct 31st for a Halloween party we are looking at having !