[jsagnol]

If none of this is working you may check to see if it is the size that is causing the problem. you could try and use a piece of the 1.5″ foam and shorten the kegbox and see if that makes a difference. also you may consider trying to double up the insulation, due to the large size you need the cold to stay inside longer and 1.5″ might not be enough. hope this helps!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

I have yet to build my bar yet but I have been looking over all of the plans and adding my own touches over the past 2 months or so. It’s recommended that you put one fan in the fridge to blow air from the keg box into the fridge as a means to circulate air. It’s also recommended to put one fan on the coils to help keep the air circulating around them, the cooler they are the better your setup will work. also if you get the power supply that is mentioned on this site it has fans and you can have that blow on the compressor to help keep it cool. this will also make it easier to add the jumper wire you need to have the power source run the fans. it’s a very simple jumper so you don’t need to have a lot of knowlegde about it. i know there are a few recommendations on places to get the fans and power source but I got mine from newegg.com (i have ordered many things from this site) and it was only about $50-$60 if I remember correctly. if you can wait a little for the fans, they usually have sales every month. Let me know if you have any other questions and I can try to help ya out. I am going to start building my bar in about 2 weeks when I finally get back home from being out here in the desert for 6 months!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

AHHH!!! the pictures make it all make sense. for some reason the original pictures you have on this post didn’t show up for me but the Rockler ones show it very well. I am going to try it this weekend if i get a chance. Thanks for the advice!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

I know you posted this a long time ago but I am hoping to still get a response from you. I was looking at your pictures and I am still not quite sure how you got the shape you did. Picture #7 says that it is not been sanded yet but you have a pretty good curve going on there.
i was wondering if you could maybe go in detail on how you set up the saw so that it may make a little more sense. Maybe you could set it up and take a picture of it? Any info would be great! I was planning on just using 1x4s or 1x6s to finish the arm rest area but I would love to try this out. Thanks!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

sounds great! thanks for the info! I look forward to seeing the pictures!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

Ya that seems like a very good idea actually. it just depends on where you have to mount the bottom of it. I don’t see any reason it would not work. Just do not get a gas shock arm that is too strong. you could probably get one even at WalMart!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

I have built a bar for a resaurant and all we did was ensure that the part of the bar that was to stay up was put a piano hinge on it a put an eyelet and hook to hold it up….much easier and probably less expensive. hope that helps!

cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

Did you come up with any final ideas? I am doing my bar with clear maple as the bar top and corrugated tin roofing for the front facing of the bar. As for my trim I am trying to decide whether to use a simple gloss or semi gloss black paint or just a dark stain. any ideas from what you ended up doing? Thanks!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

having a decent amount of experience with flooring I think you would be fine with using a standard nailer. I would be careful about using a finish nailer as the nails are generally a little weaker and the gun is too and you may have issues going through hard wood. as for the tile option, you should be fine using any type of tile adhesive for the reason you said of no one walking on it. HOWEVER, if you plan on having a really good time you amy end up with some women dancing on the bar so keep that in mind 😆 HAPPY DRINKING!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

I did think about this option and Ijust dont like the idea of having the seam there. If I did it this way I would not even make the top removable, I woul djust permanately affix it. I want to take it off so I can move from one place to another without needing a huge truck ya know? I think I came up with a good plan. I have drafted up some fairly different plans yet still the same concept. I am going to use 1/2″ carriage bolts with washers, locking washers, and nuts. I think I have it figured out right that 2 1/2″ bolts will work for the bar top with 4″ and 6″ to join the sections together. I have actually done my drawings and gone as far as making my own cut list. It seems to work out. I am stationed out here in California for about another 40 days and then I will be going beack to North Carolina and that is when I will start(about Aug 29th). I am hoping to be able to finish the bar by Sept 13th so I can enjoy it while watching Ohio State beat USC in football! I plan on taking pictures along the way and I will post them as I get them. I am building the base pretty much like you would build real cabinets(i.e. the little recessed area at the bottom on the bartender side) Thanks for the info though probak! It’s nice to finally get a response on one of these posts! now I just need to make sure I know what I am doing with the fans and cooling and all. doesn’t seem too hard but I just need to stop by radio shack. talk to ya later!

Cheers!
Dave

[jsagnol]

I am planning on doing the same thing but I think I may put the fridge in the corner since it is usually wasted space in cabinets anyways. I plan on making the front facing of the bar removable incase I need access. If you have finished your bar do you have any tips? I am also pondering how to make the airflow well behind the fridge so it cools properly. Thanks in advance!

Dave

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