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Sorry, no that is not an option. However, all plans are symmetrical, so they can be laid out right or left handed. It just takes a little extra brain work to do the flip.
I guess the only recommendation would be to go with the 45 degree bar design (EHBP-09) to improve your walkthrough space at the corner. I like the utility room idea. I try to preach that all the time. It’s a great place to put your keg box fridge, then pipe it to the front. I would place the tap on the bar back to keep the runs short and use 2″ PVC (insulated) to contain the beer lines. The PVC should connect right into your keezer so cold air is feed right up to the tap. Commercial bars use a similar method with cooling lines wrapped around the beer lines from the basement to the tap tower or they just add a chiller unit right below the tap.
Nice blog! I might have to grab a few photos and add them to the gallery area. Cheers!
You’ll have to remove the front panels and any framing that encloses the fridge unit. I can’t imagine that would destroy the whole bar, since the workspace counter is held up by multiple supports. It won’t be easy, but a saws-all will make it so.
I’d start by clearing the insulation from the opening (where the fridge meets the box, then remove the front panels that enclose the fridge. From there, remove the back support frame by cutting the front most support with a saws-all. It should slide right out. Fit the new unit and patch up the removed support. Keep in mind, as you reassemble the cooling unit, to NOT use glue! Just screws in case you ever need to reverse the process.
You can opt for a kegerator unit, but that takes all the fun away from the project
PS, take photos and post em to the forum if you remove your fridge. I’m going to be removing my old fridge this winter and upgrade to a freezer unit, but it is mounted in the back room behind a wall, so it’s easy to maintenance.
It’s easy to replace even an old fridge with a new compact freezer. You built it, so just bust it out of there, use finesse or force if needed, then adjust the opening to fit the new unit.
I’m working on a dedicated keg box guide document that will show possible fan configurations. It’s very easy though, one blowing in, one blowing out of the freezer area and usually one on the back to keep the compressor cool & happy.
I only use aluminum sheet for the floor to allow the keg box to slide easier. It has virtually zero R value.
Freezer plates vary quite a bit, some are open in the back to allow air flow through them, some are closed. In the case of a closed plate, blowing air IN is not very effective. In those cases, use TWO fans mounted next to each other, one blowing IN and one blowing OUT to create a circular air flow through the freezer area. If you have frost, that means the plate is 32 or below and that’s a good sign.
In my case, I have what I call an open freezer plate so I use just one fan, however after a few months (especially in summer when humidity is high) the plate builds up enough frost to completely block airflow and I get less air flow. When this happens my temp climbs to around 50, just like you are experiencing.
I have found that if you use a single fan, it’s best to blow OUT, not in.
One other consideration…how hot is the back of your fridge?
The back coils and compressor can get quite hot. Be sure to add a fan in the back to keep air circulating away from the equipment. Take a tip from your local liquor store, listen when you go into their walk in coolers, you’ll hear a chorus of fans. The more, the better.Remember that this is a heat game. You want to remove heat and that heat flow goes from the freezer plate to the back coils. You’re not making the box colder, you’re taking the heat away.
In some cases, people have added 3, 4, 5 or 6 fans to keep air circulating at a maximum. That is key!Also double check your door seals, stop opening the door to check temperature, be sure you insulated UNDER the floor.
Use a wired thermometer to measure temp with the door closed.You can always add another interior layer of insulation. My keg box had a lot of extra room, so I simply added another 1.5″ layer and foamed all the corner seams. The smaller space and added insulation helped get it down a few more degrees.
My latest recommendation is to go with the new low cost compact freezer units. Same size, about the same price, but they get colder than a normal compact fridge.
If you have a keg in the box, remember, it will take a few days to get down to temp. Always buy your kegs cold, if you can. My liquor store sells both warm and cold, just like cases of beer. A cold keg will reduce the load on your system greatly.
Hope that helps…
I would build a dedicated support frame using 2×4 stud material in the same dimensions as the published base. A single 4 foot 2×4 can support over a ton of weight, so no need for overkill. Then build the top section and skin out a frame around the tank.
Otherwise, just build the published design and beef up the center support with 2×4’s that carry the load all the way to the floor.
30 gallons is only about 30 gal * 8.33lb/gal = 249.9 lbsBe sure to consider water & electrical. I’d go more toward bryceman’s suggestion. Are you thinking mouse control or touchcreen? A flying mouse is another cool option.
I’m actually working on this right now, but “soon” is a relative term around here.. lol
It looks like the pin hinges are no longer available, but there are alternative configurations. I’ll dig up a few and post them here. Good question to make sticky!
Hint: one great idea is to omit hinges altogether and go with a tight fitting “hatch” secured with standard window latches. You’ll need to fit two evenly spaced handles to “pull the hatch” when the keg is empty.
Is one of the fans blowing on the exterior compressor and/or back coil? Mine runs high if my back fan is off.
Another alternative you might want to consider is the new cheap ($79) compact freezer units. They seem to get a lot colder than the compact fridges.
sorry for the delay getting to this one…looks like you found a logical solution. Great job & good thinking!
Those are all trim & sheeting and should be directly measured against your current work. The widest sheets should be 48″, run grain vertically or however you prefer.
I’ll check into the CHBD to see if a few of those parts could be added, but the bottom line is to just work off the assembly diagram. Hope that helps.
That makes for a great rustic/tiki look and is especially nice if you can get a good price on them. Go for it!
Cool! I’ll sticky that post! Thanks!