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Good point – also, be sure to read all instructions front to back before starting.
For some reason, people love to throw the instructions on the side and rush head long into the unknown.I would suggest at least the width of a standard door opening (36″) and as much as 48″.
So anywhere between 36″ and 48″ is fine. I suggest somewhere in between….42″At it’s most narrow point, my back bar clearance is 40″ and very comfortable.
if you examine the 3 in 1 bar back project, it shows you how to build a simple bottle step.
https://www.barplan.com/illuminated-bar-back/PLEASE – DO NOT USE THE MATCH BUTTONS!
This is stated in the User Guide https://www.barplan.com/chbd/designer/user/manual/This site is always evolving and adding new info.
The Party Hut can certainly be built using the initial drawings provided at https://www.barplan.com/bforum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=798. Several members have already done just that.This is just bonus material and is not even priced into the membership.
(what a ripoff? it’s bonus material and it even states it’s in development on the sales site at: https://www.barplan.com/homebarplans/EHBP-20_Outdoor_Bar_Gazebo.htm ) 🙄
This was released in the CHBD, but recently pulled for rework.
Due to the Keg Box and multi-segment sections, this is really not a good candidate for the CHBD program.
(I think releasing this version in the CHBD would cause too many questions)
If you look at the attachment image, you’ll see why…Here are the restrictions for this model:
Section A can only be changed slightly in length (not recommended)
Section B can be changed only in length.
Section C – disregard, since it’s all related to section B.
Section D can be changed only in length.
Section E – disregard, since it’s all related to section D.So, if you want to change the “west” side of the bar…just change section B.
If you want to change the “North” side of the bar, just change section D.Doing it any other way will just create too much confusion.
A new non-keg box L- shaped bar is in the works that will be more CHBD friendly.The bottom line is that of this project is to work with the CHBD, it needs to be simplified down to two sections only.
That work is in progress , but it’s tedious.When I started driving, gas was about 70 cents per gallon (mid 70’s), but then the minimum wage was about $2.50
The bar top mounts on top of the 2 x 4 wall. Due to the adjacent corners, you get ‘triangles’ throughout the bar top that stiffen it up substantially.
You can also add support brackets along the customer side of the bar, but since the bar is two layers thick, it probably won’t need them, unless of course a 400lb patron decided to pass out on the bar rail.Nice Job! Looks great!
I’ll put that on my long list of projects…
cheers!Rockler is probably the best source and currently offers two profiles…
Large Profile Molding 6-5/8 in.
and Small Profile Molding 5 in.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5762&sid=AF523The small profile is the most popular and should work with all the plans on the site.
Either of these two profiles (or other third party bar rail products) can work with the plans, but you will need to make minor adjustments to make them fit.
Bar rail profiles change from time to time, so the best approach is to decide which profile fits your liking then order it. Once it arrives, make the necessary adjustment to make them fit.They wrong approach is to just assume anything will fit without first double checking or seeing the actual finished product.
Here is a detail drawing of the Rockler Small Profile Arm Rail, but again, this may not be exactly what you get when you order it. So, order it (or a piece) and verify the measurements. I have contacted Rockler to see if they can provide better, more up to date dimensions.
[armrail:27b7rwtd][/armrail:27b7rwtd]
I’d suggest building up a “fence” of sorts to contain the envirotex.
It would be like that used on the straight kegger bar.See: https://www.barplan.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=533&pid=4248#top_display_media
for a sample of what I mean…It all depends on your preference.
Typical would be the width of a standard door opening which in most homes is 32″, but even that can be a little too big.
Break out the tape measure and check your door openings.I know some skinny folks who build very narrow access doors, while some heavier folks build them wider.
just goes to show – there’s more than one way to skin a cat! 😆
It sounds like the original poster just got a bad batch. I wouldn’t worry though. Envirotex is virtually fool proof. The biggest thing to do is be sure you have a secure rim all the way around the perimeter so that once you pour it on, it does not leak out and all over the floor. It stays liquid for quite a long time and will self level to a glass like surface. You will have some air bubbles due to mixing the two parts, but they are removed using a propane torch (read the directions thoroughly). You will also notice that once it appears to be set up, it really is not. Placing a mug of beer on it a week or two later may create an indentation. Remove the glass and in a few hours the indentation will again self level and disappear. Mine bar top took over a month to get rock hard. Envirotex is probably the best bar top finish you can buy. You’ll love it!
Check out the Builder’s gallery for example where people used it to cover tile, hockey pucks, coins, etc….