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Barry:
The bar end can just butt up to the front of the bar back OR if space allows, to the wall right next to the bar bar.
In you space limited situation, it sound like the first option is best. So, the standard 8′ dimensions should work without any modification.
If you need to trim a bit off, you can use the CHBD to do that.
Be sure to check out the Builder’s Gallery https://www.barplan.com/gallery to see how others have done this.Hi Gary…
For this particular project, the CHBD was actually only intended to modify the length of the leg sections.
The B section is fixed since the CHBD does not work with the angled corner.
If you are making a 2″ width change, it would be very easy to identify the width related parts and just tack on the 2″.Hope that helps.
The material list and cut list may use the nominal “callout” size, but in reality the finish size is always what matters.
It’s may be confusing, but you can thanks the lumber industry form making a product called a “two by four” that is actually 1.5″ x 3.5″.UK and Aussie builder’s may see other variations.
Page 16 of the EMBP-01 plan mentions no part #13 or 14. You looking at the right plan set?
https://www.barplan.com/members/page/plansets/EMBP-01_oakbarback/EMBP-01_3in1_Bar_%20Back_Plans.pdf
password: vodkaBob:
A lot of people have disconnected the tap tower from the top of the Kegerator and mounted it on the bar top.
Be sure that you can remove the tower before you buy. If ordering online, go to a local store first to scope them out.You will need to use some spray insulation foam to seal up the hole, or better yet, just extend a PVC tube down the bar top hole right into the kegerator, then run your beer line through the PVC tube.
Finally fill around the PVC tube with spray foam insulation (you can jacket the smaller tube with a larger tube to contain the insulation). The idea is to keep the beer line cold all the way up to the tap.The other option is to notch the bar top to allow the tap tower to slide into place.
Check the Builder’s Gallery for ideas on how other have accomplished this.
You do not have to take it down all around. Just the edge opposite the hinges, you need to bevel that edge just so the door will close.
A hand held belt sander will do the trick.
You really need to make it fit as close as possible yet (using common sense) realize that it has to swing open.
The old discontinued pin hinges allowed for this close fitting.
The plan doc should probably be updated now that those hinges are no longer available.1/2″ gap all around is too much, that would be a 1″ difference. 1/4″ all around would be about the max.
It’s always easier to remove material that to add.Look on the bright side, your door will fit tight and that is exactly what you want.
The EHBP-20 for now is just a guide on how to build the hut portion and only a gabled roof.
The hip roof calculator allows you to set the length and width precisely, so any other resizing tool would be redundant.keep in mind, check your local building ordinances before you build it. Wind & weather is the biggest concern with tiki huts.
Use treated lumber!The EHBP-20 Hut section is at : https://www.barplan.com/members/page/plansets/EHBP-20_party_hut/
scroll down mid page and click on the 8 diagrams.If you want to do a hip roof variation, use the hip roof calculator link below.
That’s how one other member modified his bar.
http://www.blocklayer.com/roof/roofeng.aspxThis is an old topic, but yes, that is now possible using the CHBD resizing tool.
That stuff is great for small quickie projects but for something as large as a bar, I’d do the stain step first, then apply an few coats of poly or Envirotex Lite. The problem I see is that the second coat will make it darker. You could probably just do a second coat of poly only.
Remember, stain isn’t paint. You apply it and wipe it off. I have a friend who did their cottage in T&G pine, then his wife jumped in with a bucket of stain and put it on like paint. Yikes! It was a mess!
Quote:1.) The Bar Builder thing part numbers do not match the PDF instructions for the bar.
2.) Is it me or does this bar seem really short compared to most bars. What is the typical bar top hieght of the bars everyone else has built. If anyone could help asap I could use it.1. Which parts?
The there are a couple of parts, like part #3 that are common to all three section, but all four of them are listed under section B.
This design was created before the CHBD thingy was released, so it was adapted for use with it. If you have any questions, post them here and I’m sure someone will answer them. Many people have built this bar so it’s been well tested. If you spot a part in the plans that you don;t understand of if you have suggestions, the admin is always good about making suggested changes.2. 42″ is standard bar height. I might look shorter due to it’s longer length.
All the other bar projects on the site are 42″ Tall.You could also use wood dowels to help keep them together. Might be tricky lining the holes up. The Pocket Hole approach might work too. Not sure if a pocket hole jig would help on a 45 angle.