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Treated is definitely the proper wood for an outdoor bar, but I wouldn’t leave it that ugly greenish color. Use an opaque outdoor wood stain and it will look much nicer. Redwood or Seal Brown are two of my favorite stain colors. Not sure what is available down under, so you’ll have to pay a visit to your local paint store to get color samples.
It is recommended that you build your bar top to your rail, not try to fit rail to the plan specs. Keep in mind, it does not have to fit exactly, just so the two horizontal step are in contact with your bar top and sub layer.
The plan specs can be varied however you like to make your rail fit properly.
No problem whatsoever. Typical bar overhand ranges from 4 to 12 inches. I have this crazy habit where every time I visit a new bar I measure the overhang using my hand. I’d say the vast majority are 6 to 8 inches max. and that includes the arm rail molding.
Paint works fine.
Can you paste the page or let me know where you saw that?
here’s one…built direct on floor, then tiled the back bar area and carpeted around the front.
@rkonze – I guess the thing to do it browse through the gallery. The user galleries have a lot of useful photos. Yeah, and don’t worry, the bar won’t be going anywhere. I actually would not recommend placing a sheet of plywood under the framing, just place the base framing directly on the carpet.
The plywood might make it too easy to move.My only concern with carpet is the cleanup of the inevitable spills. I usually cut back the carpet and install either floating hardwood, vinyl or tile flooring…something that can get wet. That or just be careful.
My bar is directly on the concrete, then I tiled around it and then transitioned to carpet.
They’re all a little different…just study the plans and you should be able to determine the gap. In fact, I wouldn’t worry much about that gap. Just board it over and apply a matching exterior finish panel once the bar is secured in place.
The trim “how to” process is not covered in detail simply because of the variations available in the plans, it would be next to impossible to cover the topic properly.
In a nutshell, you just get out the old tape measure and custom fit your pieces similarly to those shown in either the drawings or from what you see in the builder’s gallery. The style of trim can also vary greatly from store to store, so just shop around for what fits your style and budget.
This is the phase of construction where you can get creative.
I suggest a durable, removable drip tray like this 19.5″ stainless model: http://barplan.barstore.com/stainless-steel-drip-tray-p-349.html
Only $22.19Just be sure your wood beer gutter width can accommodate the 4″ tray width.
I installed a built in brass tray from Kegworks, but it tarnished easily and the small drain plugged up often.
It’s easier t o clean the removable variety.
that should work and it’s a great idea! be sure to post photos! Cheers!
typically you run #12 three conductor to the bar then route it to strategically placed receptacles, usually along the back splash (See EHBP-09 or 04 for details) – use #14 for lighting circuits.
I think you pretty much answered your own question though, run it just like you would in a half wall.
oak is the best, but very expensive, even for veneer. I used a good A/C grade (A quality on one side, C quality on the other) and then used an oak stain, then Envirotex Lite. I recommend a 3/4″ thick bar top layer.
Find oak bar rail here:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5762&sid=AF523I have not found it at any of the big box stores. You could also try your hand at making your own using the process described here: https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadarea/view_document/17-embp-06-covecut-armrail
Absolutely!
Granite – Concrete – and Dancin’ Girls!
See this post for more info: https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/forum/1-general-questions/2770-how-much-weight-can-these-bars-support#2770