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It definitely takes time and DO NOT open the door!
At one point I figured out how to long it takes to cool a 1/2 and 1/4 barrel of beer and it’s about at least 48 hours…and sometimes maybe twice that.
Even the store bought kegerators take time to cool.You said the plural “kegs” how many and what size?
I suggest you also place your thermometer probe in a glass or bottle of water to get a more accurate reading or the actual liquid temperature.
Any leaks, especially around the door will prevent you from reaching the target temp of about 36 to 38 degrees.
Opening the door repeatedly will also delay cooling by introducing warm room air.One tip to further reduce the air space in your keg box is to add another inner later of insulation panels.
If you got down to 36 before, then you should be able to get there again.
Typically you just bring the stuff home and cut it up yourself.
Ask a friend with a pickup truck or trailer to help – the promise of a few free beers helps.Just use a glue stick or hot glue gun to hold them in place. Once you pour the E-tex, it will stay “liquid” for quite some time. Be sure you have a small “wall” all the way around the bar top to contain it. Otherwise it could all drip of the floor. Be sure to read that instruction sheet several times to understand it full.
It sounds crazy, but you use a propane torch to get the bubbles out. Envirotex is not flammable at all. It’s self leveling and it’s pretty cool watching it smooth out. Once it sets up, it will be as smooth and flat as glass. It will also take a long time before it’s fully cured. Mine took almost 3 month or more before it got hard as glass. In the mean time, it will seem hard, but if you set a beer mug on it, the mug will leave a dent impression. Remove the mug and in a day or so, the dent is gone. So don’t freak out if that happens to you. 😉
It says it works on:
Wood – Sea Shells – Painted Surfaces
Paper – Dried Flowers – Transfers
Decals – Beans – Seeds
Oil Paints – Bread Dough – Figurines
Pine Cones – Straw Flowers – Styrofoam
Rocks – Metal – Plaster
Bisque – Models – Fabric
…so I think you’ll be OK.I would be sure you leave a slight gap around the edge of the metal so it can flow around the edges to prevent nervous fingers from starting to peel it back.
It would look cool over diamond plate too!
You essentially want to submerge the metal completely in the epoxy.See the bonus download area for the instruction sheet for Envirotex.
https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadarea/view_category/4-bonus-downloadsIt looks like you guys are asking two separate questions, so I’ll answer each….
1. The 1.5″ overhang of the countertop is deliberate. It gives you a slight overhang and more counter space. It’s also more comfortable when you have a sort of toe space between the two edges, take a look at your kitchen counters, there is a 3.5″ toe space on most cabinets. This should not cause and problems trimming the face, just run a 1×2 or 1×4 all the way across the top of the lower cabinet opening the trim down at the verticals with a 1×4. If you decide to put doors on, the face would then be flush. Face trim or doors are not required on the bartender side, but it’s your option.
2. on page 18 & 19, there is a gap of 1.5″ where parts 61, 62, 63, 68 and 69 meet the side upright supports. This 1.5″ gap allows for the 1.5″ thickness of parts 70, 71, 72 to meet flush at the top. I don’t see too much confusion in the drawing. When done properly, the edges of parts 61,62,63, 68 and 69 should be flush at the top with parts 70, 71 and 72.
(Notice on page 18 it says to cut the trim but don’t secure yet, that is to allow you to make it flush to the real (70, 71, 72) parts. There is even a note that points out the 1.5″ gap.)dvw – tell your wife she’s a natural woodworker and mechanical engineer! 😉
Cheers!exactly what mgchip said – the backer board can be 1/2 plywood, the two 1 1/2″ panels of pro pink insulation gives you a total of 3″ insulation to block that opening.
Fill any seam opening with ample amounts of “great stuff” spray foam insulation.TIP: when applying “Great Stuff” foam insulation, don’t try to spread it around like butter to make it flush because it will just make a mess. Use the straw to spray it deep into the seam, then let it expand. Once it dries, THEN you can easily trim it with a razor blade.
Hi Wally!
Nice hut! I too was wondering which bar you were leaning towards.
If it were up to me, I’d go with a straight bar set sideways to use that nice cozy bar back pocket.
Let me whip up a drawing to show you what I mean…(20 minutes later) here ya go Wally!’
This is how I’d do it. I’m guessing the 12′ wall is against the back.
This is the most practical way to do it, since the three walls will protect your back bar from winds and weather.
The EHBP-03 would fit this perfectly, I don’t think you even need to resize it.
The EHBP-03 includes a lower wet prep area. You can omit the keg box portion of you like.
[attachment=1:1x8mck4b]wallysbar.jpg[/attachment:1x8mck4b]
This layout also allows 48″ behind the bar which would accommodate a 12″ deep bar back for booze cabinets and display shelves.
I even threw in a 32″ TV in the corner…well protected from the elements.There is even a waitress station where someone can just walk up to the bar end to get a drink.
You would french the corner into the wall end and be sure to extend the bar top out a bit (6″) not shown.Angled bars would just be too big for the inside size of the structure.
Here, I dropped an actual EHBP-03 model in there to show you the exact fit.
[attachment=0:1x8mck4b]wallysbar2.jpg[/attachment:1x8mck4b]
It can hang out just flush with the exterior wall so you can close it up in the winter, if you have winter in your location.
My drawing shows is out a little more than needed…maybe 2 inches or so.
Use treated lumber and weather proof finish, cause it might get a tiny bit wet.Hope that helps!
SamJust about done with this request…
here is a preliminary rendering…the top band is chrome (or diamond plate), but could be wood trim, a light box or anything!
The side shelve are glass to allow light to trickle down. Front doors use diamond pattern plexiglass like that found in fluorescent light fixtures.
It’s designed to fit a popcorn popper or fish tank (hexagon style)
[attachment=0:1l1d9ax2]EHBP-011 rending1.jpg[/attachment:1l1d9ax2]Good points –
Glad to see at least one person doesn’t unscrew the top of his head and remove brain then try to rely entirely on the plan instructions. (JK LOL)
I do hope and expect people to use that noodle a bit. The cut accuracy is really not that critical and I can cut an adequately straight line with a circular saw.
I also expect people to orient boards with factory edges forward, your cuts to the rear. A sander and front trim also cleans up edges nicely.
If you do use a table saw, use two people or roller extensions to hold the work as it leaves the back of the saw. Common sense.As far as wood moisture….really? I’ve never experienced any issues with kiln dried plywood or lumber.
It always a good idea to acclimate your wood, but I doubt that precludes use of the plans.The thickness for the sides should be 1/2″ plywood, the shelves should be 3/4″.
The furring strips help secure the corners and act as shelf supports.Finally, yes, a nail gun sure does make your life easier. I recommend it on all current plans.
Get a finish nailer AND a brad nailer, but a framing nailer is a bit too big.
Always use glue along with the finish or brad nailer.This is good info for the Builder’s Tips Document.
which door? the EHBP-01 has no doors. ???
Good Question!
ALWAYS use Mirror Mastic type adhesive. NEVER use anything else on a mirror or the adhesive could react with the mirror lining.
Home Depot carries this, just ask for Mirror Mastic adhesive or google it to find current online sources.Did you try the CHDB?
https://www.barplan.com/chbdThe last one is the best one…you do not want the bartender struggling with that odd head space.
Nice sketchup drawings!
I should spit out some sketchup models of the actual bar projects for those who want to take on entire room designs.
[armrail:1u9ifvwh][/armrail:1u9ifvwh]
Usually people just use glue and stainless steel finishing nails driven very carefully from above, then countersunk and the holes puttied and sanded.
That’s the cheap & easy way….Other methods include using a pocket hole at the seams then gluing and screwing from below.
[ph:1u9ifvwh][/ph:1u9ifvwh]or…
Using Tite-Joint fasteners at the seams, then gluing and screwing from below.
[tj:1u9ifvwh][/tj:1u9ifvwh]