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this model does not have a lower tier…see the EHBP-04, EHBP-05 and EHBP-09 for the two tier varieties.
The EHBP-02 is really a beer bar, easy and inexpensive to build, perfect for frat house parties.
I started with the standard 99.75″ main leg and the parts list for that section reads an estimated price of $261.30 (or $458.83 for the entire bar)
Once the main leg is resized to 60″, that section is now $215.95 (or $418.95 for the entire bar)
So, what part do you see that increased?Be sure you are NOT using the MATCH function….and if you are using the match function, you need to read the user guide.
https://www.barplan.com/chbd/designer/user/manual/Keep in mind those prices are estimates only…and probably on the high side, and includes solid oak arm rest boards.
Download the latest version from here: http://get.adobe.com/reader/
Before you seal the opening around the door, just run the wires through anywhere. If you already foamed the space between the fridge opening and the bar frame, just poke a hole with a log rod.
You MUST add the fan to be sure you have air circulation inside the keg box. It just won’t work nearly as well without it.
You can add it later without much trouble. But it’s always best to do it right the first time.
splice it. Just put a seam in the middle. I suggest a base layer of plywood, then do the top using a package of hardwood flooring.
It makes great bar tops too! You could then cover the flooring with Envirotex Lite for a nice waterproof bar top surface.Very carefully to be sure:
Do a dry run of all sections to be sure they fit and your angles are correct.
Line up the seams and glue them with Elmers type wood glue. The bottom should be glued to the bar top using a PL-200 type construction adhesive.
Once all segments are clamped in place, drill pilot holes from below, being carefully not to drill too deep, then screw from below the rough bar top layer with 1″ to 1 1/4″ screws.
One screw every 16″ should be sufficient to hold it in place until the glue sets up.I’ve also seen people use a air powered a finsish or brad nailer, then putty up the holes. Remember, not a framing nailer – it will definitely split the molding.
I highly recommend drilling pilot holes are using screws from behind.
Hope that helps.
if anyone has found any LED lighting products that they’d recommend, please feel free to post.
One more thought…did you insulate UNDER the floor section? I hope so!
As far as fans, just go to your local hardware store / home center hardware depart and get a short legnth of aluminum stock.
May 1/8″ thick, 1″ wide and 30″ inches long. Measure the inside of the fridge, the bend the metal so it just fits.
A short screw on each side should not damage the fridge. Mount the fan(s) as close to the edge of the bracket so it does not block airflow.Take a close look at this photo and you’ll see what I mean.
In the photo, one fan is blowing in, one is blowing out.
[attachment=1:3rzcbrqy]kegboxfans.jpg[/attachment:3rzcbrqy]Also take not of the added foil insulation. Not sure where is was purchased, but it’s a great idea.
It should be fit very snuggly…it looks like this is not very snug, but I’ll be it works well anyway.In this photo, notice the placement of the fan blowing over the compressor.
[attachment=0:3rzcbrqy]compressor fan.JPG[/attachment:3rzcbrqy]
Oh, and as shown here, then CO2 tank is ALWAYS placed outside the cold box.Typically the bottom layer is rough plywood and the top layer is a nice finish grade.
If you have concerns about the overhand sagging (it probably won’t) you can place a trimmed down 2 x 6 UNDER the birch layer under the overhang.
Not sure what type of arm rail you are considering, but the standard 1×4 arm rest really added stability to the overhang.As far as attaching the bar top, I suggest PL-200 or similar construction glue and a few finish nails, counter sunk and wood puttied, just like you thought.
The glue is very strong, just be sure you add some weights to the top while it sets up.I would personally screw down the rough base layer, then just glue the finish layer to the rough base layer…got that?
Any way will work and it’s really your choice.Cheers!
[armrail:2aac1scq][/armrail:2aac1scq]
Dan:
Yes, you’re absolutely right regarding those 5 panels and I’ll be damned if I know what happened there…
This plan was revised by a temporary helper before my time and it looks like I need to make some corrections today….weird.
Nobody has ever pointed that out…but yes, common sense dictates they are all the same height.As far as the bar top sizes, if you notice where the seam between 41a and 42 is located, you will see that the rough cut out width for 41a is indeed 29″…you just have to cut the section out of 41a.
If you look back on page 26 you will see that the cutout size is 13.5″ x 55.83″ if you need decimal to fraction conversion, there is a chart in the forum and gallery. I can dig up that link for you.Remember, nothing is written in stone. You can easily make modifications and still wind up with an excellent bar.
In fact, I encourage people to explore the gallery and combine ideas they find there to build a truly unique bar.Thanks & Have Fun!
SamAre they 5 volt fans? This is why we suggest using an old PC power supply mounted OUTSIDE the keg box with light gauge wires supplying the fans the low power.
The fans should not introduce any heat whatsoever. If they do, then that’s a problem.
Also, what is your thermostat set to. Sometime those thermostats don’t work so great…so turn it all the way to the coldest spot, then back it off a bit.
Does you fridge have a metal freezer plate?
If the freezer area has a door, it also needs to be removed so air can flow freely.
Post a closeup photo here so we can see what your setup looks like.
Sorry bout locking, I just figured I’d steer everyone back to this identical topic.
Plans are good to go as is…post any questions you may encounter in this forum area.
Have Fun!Can you post a drawing of what you have installed so far?
All I can say is arrange your equipment in a logical work flow, left to right, or right to left depending how items are returned to the bar.
Not sure this is the proper topic area for your question…what bar did you build? I assume the EHBP-02.Excellent video, the music really makes it! I was chuckling the whole time watching the big guy tearin’ it up!
I was hoping to see the completed bar at the end with some nice slow relaxing music while you enjoyed a cold beer.
A++++Hope ya don’t mind if I share it…oh, and maybe throw a credit in for barplan.com – cheers!
BTW – were you working directly off the PDF on the laptop? If so, that’s pretty cool!