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The Pro Pink has a higher R factor and higher price. The Styro is cheap, has a lower R factor and since it comes in thinner sizes, it is used where the thinner insulation is all that will work, like the door.
The door is actually a combination of pro pink and “great stuff” spray foam. You want EVERY air pocket sealed in the door.If you can find thinner Prop Pink (I have only been able to source 1.5″ thick.) then by all means, do the substitution.
My pleasure Davey!
The real meat & potatoes of the plans is the framework assembly. Most builder’s can take a glance at the plans and get the idea quickly.
Once you have a few key concepts down, common sense carries through the plan set. If not, then that’s what the forum is for.Thanks and I look forward to seeing you photos! Take a lot of them! Film (memory) is cheap.
Cheers!
SamDan – sorry for the delay in the reply to your post. The CHBD for this project is on the back burner right now.
The bar can currently be built using the dimensions in the step by step assembly guide…
The project in the CHBD originally contained too many sizable sections, so I had to rearrange a lot of parts into different section groups.
It’s tedious to say the least.If you’d like, I can dig up the original plan that had the materiel list, it should be very close.
Just add a center shelf and you can get a whole lot of bottled beer in the keg box. The caveat is that you’d be opening it way too much, and that’s not recommended.
When is comes to bottled beer coolers, save your clams for something like these:http://barplan.barstore.com/countertop-cooler-p-10830.html
http://barplan.barstore.com/beer-super-cooler-countertops-p-10837.html
http://barplan.barstore.com/beer-super-cooler-uprights-p-10831.html
http://barplan.barstore.com/beer-super-cooler-upright-50in-p-10834.html
The glass front units are very cool, but quite expensive. I’m saving up for one myself.
Gotta remember with these units, freight is included in the price and they are heavy!nice bar nook! – I’d suggest starting with a wall along the dotted line that would support the bar top, then a modular cabinet approach to the bartender side.
Take a look at the EHBP-08 and it’s construction and you’ll get what I mean.I’m focusing on the EHBP-10 right now and that is exactly the approach you need here.
Build the wall
[attachment=2:1drrvxef]modular_1.jpg[/attachment:1drrvxef]
add the cabinets
[attachment=1:1drrvxef]modular_2.jpg[/attachment:1drrvxef]
place the countertop
[attachment=0:1drrvxef]modular_3.jpg[/attachment:1drrvxef]If you can give me the length of those two lines and the correct angle (looks like 45 degrees to me), perhaps I can whip you up a basic drawing tomorrow.
Attachments:
A corny keg is 25″ high and 8.5″ wide (I just measure one in the basement).
I drew up a quick cylinder of the same side and placed in inside the keg box of the EHBP-03 plan.As you can see, it fits with plenty of head room to spare. albeit 2″.
(note, the darker pink layer of foam above the keg is the top sheet of foam seen on edge, so it’s a little deceiving)[attachment=0:97ap2jhr]corny keg comparison.jpg[/attachment:97ap2jhr]
As designed, the interior dimensions are ~ 32″ long x 27″ high x 19″ wide.
I built mine only slightly bigger than the design and I can get 6 in there or 1 half barrel and 2 corny’s.
Just measure the base and height of your kegs an allow head space for the connections.Whatever lines you run external to a keg box or kegerator should be OPEN INSULATED lines…what does that mean?
It means you run 1.5″ or 2″ PVC drain type pipe between the box and tower that is open to allow air to flow from the keg box up to the tower.
The beer line is run in this enclosed “open” cold air space. The outside of the PVC is then well insulated with several layers of foil clad insulation.This is done so you always have cold beer right up to the tap – some take the cheap route and just insulated the beer tubing, but that’s not recommended.
You can see this in detail in the EHBP-03 plan drawings, page 26 – Tapper Location & Assembly Considerations.
For those wondering if the freezer will work, I say absolutely yes.
I doubt it will get “too cold” and if if ever does, you can buy a simple plug & play thermostat switch that simply shuts off the freezer power when it gets too cold.
Once it warms up again the power is restored. This is how you convert a large chest freezer to a keg box.metric units are available in the CHBD. Please see the CHBD user guide for more info.
Not sure if anyone has tried to build off those numbers…it’s just a straight mathematical conversion from the English units.
If you need to convert single pieces, just use the converter on the right side bar of the https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers site.You can remove the tap tower, drill an opening, then reconnect the tower.
It’ll take a little bit of fudging, but you’ll have to raise or lower the kegerator to get it to fit. For really tall units, some people have just notched out the base to get the extra space. I think there are some photos in the gallery of just such a case. Let me know if you need those pics.No idea on this one, but please let us know if you find something that works.
I have a Galaxy Tab 10.1 that would make a great touchscreen jukebox.I am wondering if there would be a way to simply remote desktop to Jukebox Jockey.
Did you check with the author of that program?^^^ what Scott said ^^^
he’s exactly right, PL-200 is some stubborn stuff, but a much better alternative to wrecking the integrity of your floor. You never know when one little crack decide to become longer, and longer, and longer….you get the idea.
As far as the wall connection…absolutely! Mine is connected to the wall. In fact the wall opening is where I placed my keg box, so the keg box fridge unit is actually behind the wall and not taking up valuable bar space. It’s easier to maintenance from that side too. See:
https://www.barplan.com/gallery/displayi … play_media
https://www.barplan.com/gallery/displayi … play_media
https://www.barplan.com/gallery/displayi … play_media
https://www.barplan.com/gallery/displayi … play_media
those are all shots of my bar…looks a bit different today, those a re a few years old.
have fun!
Here is a view from below showing the mounting brackets.
You will want to install these by either screwing through the rough base bar top layer BEFORE you install the top or – pilot drill the brackets and install from below being very careful not to screw them in too far. Use glue to ensure a secure connection.
[attachment=1:2kzqgdxk]padded arm rest low.jpg[/attachment:2kzqgdxk]
[attachment=0:2kzqgdxk]padded arm rest low high.jpg[/attachment:2kzqgdxk]
Wow! that’s a nice inexpensive unit!
This may be the next best recommended cooling unit for a keg box.
No freezer plate, but the heat transfer unit is fully hidden, just like a regular chest freezer.
I might recommend loading that unit with two 1 one gallon jugs of water or even a few old six packs of beer just to increase surface area for the fan.
I still highly recommend the use of a circulation fan.
[attachment=1:1q6nh9mj]L11587621_edgestar_freezer.jpg[/attachment:1q6nh9mj]
[attachment=0:1q6nh9mj]210885020_edgstar_freezer.jpg[/attachment:1q6nh9mj]
