[mgcalvar]

tank3467 wrote:

Wow, this became a sticky.

Anyway, I will take some profile pics tomorrow for you.

As for the cuts on the underside, I didnt actually make any. I was planning on it and was trying to decide what to use (was planning on using the table saw, because I couldnt find a router blade that I thought would work). If you look at the picture with the rail on, the top of the bar is made out of 1/2 inch strips of redwood, ripped from 2x4s. I left 1.75 inches along the whole edge so that the rail angled down from the top of the redwood to the OSB frame under the strips. This gave me the angle of the arm rail I wanted with a small gap at the front of the arm rail over the redwood.. I clamped the rail down at the spot I wanted and drilled pilot holes thru the OSB, just missing the redwood about every five inches (give or take), followed by screws. I also used an air stapler at the edge of the OSB, just because I felt like it. The support is very good, as long as no one tries to stand on it (it still might hold). I plan on using envirotex so the gap in the front didnt bother me. The screws keep the rail tight to the redwood so the envirotex shouldnt leak thru, but just to be sure I filled the gap with wood putty (thanks probak, I probably would have used silicone).

Bar rail angles:
If u look again at the picture you will see that I angled the corner. I did this because I would not have had enough railing (or it would have been too close) if I would have cut a 45 degree angle. I cut 5 inches each direction from the corner so that the angle became 22.5 degrees, saving about six inches of wood. One problem with the angle from the redwood to the OSB meant that I also had to make a bevel cut at the corner so that the rail lined up correctly (i am very curious if anyone who bought premade rail also had to do this). Luckily the miter saw I my work parnter brought also tilted for bevel cuts otherwise I would have used the circular saw. (BTW the bevel was at 7.5 degrees, I think I read a post asking about this in the forum).

Things I would do differently.

I made an 8 inch overhang with 1/2 inch OSB. The problem is that when you lean on the rail the OSB flexes slightly. I probably should have used plywood just for added strength, but I bought some corbels from home depot that take the stress off the OSB, so no big deal. If you use plywood on top it probably wont flex, so the corbels would be unnecessary ( but i kind of like the way they look anyway).

Also:

I built this bar completely outdoors in the garage, because I knew the wife would not be happy with the mess I made inside. I knew that the bar wouldnt fit through the door with the top on so I made the top of the bar removeable. My design is based on the eight foot bar plans, but is only 7 feet long (due to the size of the room). To make the top removeable I put the OSB on and clamped it down exactly where I wanted it. I then screwed 2×4’s underneath the OSB that lined up on all four sides. The 2×4’s slide inside the frame for a perfect fit, and I can screw them on to make it more stable (but I dont think i need too). I can now take the bar with me if I ever move.

Well my book is over for now, I hope it made sense. Please feel free to ask more questions. I hope to have the bar in the house this week and the brass rail is supposed to get here on monday. I will put pics up as soon as possible.

tank3467

BTW, I am by no means an expert woodworker. Putting the rail on took about 2 hours, with about the first 1 1/2 hours testing with scrap 2×6’s to make sure I didnt screw up.

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