[michael_89]

Looks very good! Keep us posted when you finish it.

–Jamie

[michael_89]

A half barrel is 24.5″ high and 17″ in diameter. You will also need height for the tapper and hose. I also use my keg chamber to store bottled beer, mixers, etc. I’ll measure the dimenions of my keg box when I get home and post.

–Jamie

[michael_89]

Yes, just lay the insulation on the floor and use Great Stuff around the perimeter. It will hold the sheet in pretty well. You might want to put some plastic down if you are building the bar somewhere other then the final resting place.

[michael_89]

thesnake wrote:

I have two questions regarding the arm rest on the Kegger bar that I would really appreciate some help with.

First, the plans call for the arm rest to be made of a 1″ x 6″ and a 1″ x 4″ oak board glued together. Would you suggest glueing them together and then cutting to size? Or cutting then gluing?

I cut mine then glued, but then again I’m no woodworker. They fit alright though.

thesnake wrote:

Next is a questions regarding the connection of the are rest to the bar top. The plan isn’t specific on how to do so. Basically it seems that the arm rest will only have 2″ of surface area where it connects to the bar top. Will glue and finish nails be strong enough to support the 4 remaining inches overhang (considering that is where one might put a decent amount of body weight when using the bar)? Or am I misunderstanding the plans?

As I said earlier, any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Mike

The 2″ is plenty of area to hold the armrest. You will want to use wood glue on the surface and the butt joint. I then used 1 5/8″ wood screws and secured the rest from underneath. Countersunk them in and used some wood puddy to cover the heads. I would not think finishing nails would be enough to hold it.

[michael_89]

Problem with 2″ is you typically double up on the 1.5″ to get 3″ which fits in a 2×4 great. With a 2″ PP you can’t double up and if you just use a single sheet you have alot of airspace to fill with GreatStuff. I had the same problem as you and went with the 3/4″ sheets and just doubled and quadrupled up to get 1.5 and 3 inch pieces.

If you use the 3/4″ use expanding foam between the layers and you should be golden.

–Jamie

[michael_89]

Another easy solution is a wireless temperture sensor from RadioShack. Something like http://www.radioshack.com/product/index … age=family

$20 isn’t a bad deal either.

[michael_89]

Steve,

Yea, I have my gasket ready, just have to be able to mount the door correctly! The plans are great man. I’ve home brewed my own beer for some time, but have always bottled it. Yesterday I picked up a corny keg and can’t wait to have my first pint of home brewed beer out of the keg box. The problem was my opening was not perfectly square (miter saw was off just a hair) so my frame is not fitting in very well. I’ve done tons of sanding, but it’s taking some time.

Anyways, thanks for the advice and keep up the good work!

–Jamie

[michael_89]

Thanks for the pictures Darrylgh! I’ve already used the bar with a keg for the superbowl a couple months back, but the door was just stuck in and sealed with tape (very redneck but functional), so it’s high time I get it mounted the right way. It’s been a pain in the ass though. I’ll pick up some of the hinges and see if I can get them to work.

Thanks!
–Jamie

[michael_89]

You right. My kegger bar was only 6ft also. On the plans you will notice some dimentions highlighted in yellow, these are related to the length of the bar. If you take 20” off the top, take that 20” off every length dimension. You will have to do some modifying to the keg box size also. You don’t really want to shrink it by the same size as you take off the length, you’re want to take alot of it off the other, non insulated side. But, yea, no problem making a smaller bar.

On the question of wood types, I know around me, there aren’t a lot of sources for exotic lumber…the Home Depots and Lowes carry pine, aspen, popular, and red oak. Depending on what you have to start with, ie fridge, fans, tools, etc, $1000 can get eatten up pretty quickly. I would recommend going to oak since it’s pretty common, then picking a stain you like. You can stain any wood cherry or a deep red. They all will look a bit different, but you will still get the deep, rich color.

Hope this helps.

-Jamie

[michael_89]

Dad,

That’s a large fan to require 120 VAC! If you want to go with something that large, you’re pretty much on the right track. However, 22 gauge wire is a bit thin for typical high voltage loads, but then again, I don’t know the current the fan pulls. You can tie the extention cord together in a box or just use wire nuts (make sure they are sized correctly) and electrical tape. With all electrical work, BE CAREFUL, and if you don’t feel comfortable doing the work, get a electrician to do it.

[michael_89]

Top,

As long as you have an AC outlet around, you can use a transformer, or wall wart, to power the fan. You’ll need to cut the mini-plug off the end and either solder, nut, or join the red and black wires from the fan to the transformer. Another solution is using a DC distrubtion module like the PD0 on this page:
http://www.hometech.com/power/powersup.html#EL-PD9

From there you just match neutral (red) with hot (black).

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