[ssayonh]

Oh yeah – one more thing —

Not sure what you meant, but you should have the fan blowing over the freezer plate back INTO the fridge, drawing from the keg-box. I know it sounds ass-backwards, but the key is to drag the warm air from the keg-box over the freezer plate and into the fridge. Then have at least one fan on the other side of the fridge blowing back out into the keg box.

I had this problem at first, and when I corrected it by turning the fan around, it cooled much quicker.

[ssayonh]

Tall guy –

It sounds like your keg box is insulated similar to mine, and I even have a flat-back fridge. I wouldn’t bother with adding new insulation, but it might help if you purchase a temperature regulator connected to the fridge power supply. You can buy them on http://www.beveragefactory.com. I don’t have the digital, its just a dial that I set to 40 degrees (I have Guinness, so it’s a little warmer). You plug the fridge into that, and then plug the regulator into the wall. The copper mercury bulb drops into the keg-box (just insulate around it), and when the temp hits 40, it will kill the power on the fridge. It kicks on when the temp rises above 40 again. I have the power supply/fans continuously running to circulate air.

My only problem is that I have to empty the drip tray once/week. Not sure why i still get drips from the freezer plate, I have the fan system set up similar to yours. It still works fine, the compressor does not get too warm, and the temp stays right about 39.

Hope this helps. Ron

[ssayonh]

Thanks a ton! The explanation helps a lot. Thankfully, I did insulate the floor, with pro-pink and great stuff. I’m going to pick up the power supply and fans tomorrow.

Appreciate the time – I’ll be sure to post photos when its finished; can’t wait!

Thanks again – Ronne

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